Toilet setback?

[mg]

I myself am an advocate of Search engines. i might have found what your looking for? let me know. above ground off sets?

below ground, there would be no need for a *Toilet flange offset" and HD does have them, if that what your looking for.

key words. "toilet flange", offset, plumbing supply

i briefly read the page. i would use cement to close off the opening. as you are working on a slab. drill holes so you can anchor the flange. for the fresh cement insert a wood dowel and then drill it out to insert the anchors / to hold down/mount the flange.

[DaveC]

On Thu, 15 Jul 2004 08:05:40 -0700, mg wrote (in article ):

Same reference given by Bob K in this thread.

Maybe I'm missing something, but this page shows opening the floor to use this flange. I want to avoid this solution, if possible. Are you saying that it is possible to use this flange and *not* open the floor?

[mg]

your not going to find it.

your going to wind up with a Rube Goldberg. a typical homeowner job. aka: an abortion

if you don't know what a Rube is, sorry you'll have to do a Google.

[default]

Mount the sink over the back of the toilet, then.

[Mark Jerde]

I've (almost) seen this in a bathroom^H^H^H^H^H^H^H^Hcommode & sink room in what used to be a broom closet.

-- Mark

[mg]

you didn't explain clearly what your objective was. sorry, your fault.

just stated you didn't want to use a jack hammer and were looking for toilet off set.

Jackhammers are not used when a cold chisel will suffice.

a toilet off set is a toilet off set. is just that, a toilet offset.

that's what you asked for. sorry again, your fa

yes you are missing something. it called your cake and wanting to eat it too.

anyway if its all pvc. use the flange like the one on the link provide above, place a coupling of some sort ( you figure it out) to the new flange . float a new pad of cement around that.

going to look like hell, but it's your home.

[TOM]

Sorry, the offset flange is not there, just the rough-in dimensions. Here are some more useful links

Here's where they used an offset flange on This Old House (note item E, and sources of supply last page):

Other sourcesof supply for the offset closet flange: You can turn the offset in any direction (forwards, backwards, sideways).

-- Tom

[Mark & Shauna]

This whole thread is bull sh*t. A simple google of "offset closet flange" answers it all, pick any of a hundred sources for the flange,

it has been answered or not, if you are trying to recover from a botched rough in or not, if you need to move the flange this is the only way to do it and look at yourself in the mirror at night without a swift slap in the face for being a POS hack. Get a hammer, chisel, and get to work chipping out the slab and installing the offset flange.

Building any above the floor offset should require the posting of an address so the appropriate individual can be sent to your location where you will subsequently be flogged.

If you are somehow trying to move the edge of the bowl back to save space the only way that is possibe is to look at different manufacturers specs and pick the closet with the shortest distance from center of flange to edge of the bowl. Period.

Gawd, this one is a doozy...

Mark

DaveC wrote:

[Mark & Shauna]

You dont even have to use the PVC flange. Get a cast iron or bronze DWV offset. All you will have to do is chip a small shallow slot a couple inches deep around the pipe with a chisel to accommodate the new flange, caulk it in with oakum, and cap the oakum with propoxy20 or JBweld or something similar. This is the easiest way to avoid chipping out the entire slab.

This is the problem, stubbing your toe is where the homeowner gets stuck. Years of trying to fix these problems is where the tradesman gets the "fixes". They dont just come to you in a coveted pamphlet the day you get your license. You spend years and years coming up with better and more simple solutions to more complex problems and yet the homeowner always thinks you are a gaffer.

I hate to enter the homeowner vs. contractor debate but this thread shows clearly that alt.home.repair, or at least the mindset its readers have posted here, is a scary place. I would venture to guess that without google half of the posters to a plumbing thread dont even know what "oakum" _is_ as they have never seen it when bopping through the isles at home crapo or howes. How about a caulking iron? spooning iron? inside chisel? outside chisel? joint runner? resilient gasket?

I have no problems with homeowners doing their own work, in fact I encourage it. But you get what you get and dont bitch about it when what you get is substandard.

Mark

[Dan Hartung]

Stating your opinion this way leaves it unclear as to whether the procedure is what you are recommending against, or the installer.

Why not say that, instead of what you did? What an ass. Repeat business, much?

[DaveC]

On Thu, 15 Jul 2004 18:13:33 -0700, TOM wrote (in article ):

Thanks, Tom.

But, again, this seems to be a regular, below-the-floor install.

I think the easiest way to do this is to get a 14-inch offset toilet.

Thanks to all who helped me reach this decision.

[mg]

down here You don't top post

read the entire thread, the OP is beyond helping. He's one of them *He deserves what he gets*

problem give all service help, cashiers and the like a hard time, when shopping. an *asshole customer*

oh get off your soap box, Mr. and Mrs Know it all.

[Amuzed2death]

Leading joints yet are we Mark? Oakum (sometimes called "horsehair") is tamped into cast iron sewer joints to seal them, then topped with lead, to hold the Oakum in. Oakum has a tendency to expand slightyly, when moist and therefore, makes a good seal. Most of the other terms you listed, are tools used to work these kind of joints.

Am I close?

[DaveC]

On Fri, 16 Jul 2004 20:09:20 -0700, Rico dJour wrote (in article ):

Hi, Rico, I realize that. I had seen most of the options already from my prior net searches. I then asked the group here for their *experience*, not for more google.

I do background searches on every topic I need answers to, then I ask the pros what their experience is, and using that, frequently choose one of the options I'd first researched.

If one of the pros wants to point me to one or two particular net reference that he or she thinks would work for me, I'm happy to go look at it. It is the pro's experience I'm after.

I agree.

Thanks,