A syringe full of grease helps when assembling
things, using screws or bolts. A tiny bit of
grease on the threads helps installing. And later,
the threads are more likely to come apart.
I used to use Vaseline, but more recently have
been using marine grease.
When in college, a friend gave me some plastic
cow teat syringes. Which have served well. Vet
supply places sell real syringes. I grind the
tip flat, so I'm less likely to stab myself.
The problem with using grease is that it'll stay where you put it, and
not only will vibrations be more likely to cause the nuts and bolts you
use it on to come loose, but dust will stick to it, potentially causing
Go to any pharmacy and buy a 3 fluid ounce bottle of glycerine for about
$3. Glycerine has all of the properties of a light oil, but it's
actually an alcohol and so it evaporates completely without leaving any
So, you can use the glycerine as a light oil for assembling part with
the knowledge that after the assembly is complete, the oil will
evaporate completely so the assembly won't be affected by vibrations
causing the nuts and bolts to loosen, or airborne dust sticking to and
remaining on the assembled parts.
For example, supposed you wanted to push a rubber handle bar grip onto a
chrome plated steel bicycle handle bar. The co-efficient of friction
between rubber and steel is high, and so pushing it on without a
lubricant is gonna be a fight. But, if you use a lubricant like grease,
the grips will slide off as easily as they slid on. So, use glycerine
as the lubricant, and then leave the grips alone for a couple of days
for the glycerine to evaporate out of the microscopic gap between the
steel and the rubber. That way, you enjoy the benefits of having used a
lubricant to get the grips to slide on easily and the benefits of not
having used a lubricant in that the grips don't slide off easily, both
at the same time.
Here's another example. If you've got an old weathered wood window
frame to repaint, do you repaint first and then caulk the joints, or do
you caulk the joints and then paint? If you caulk first, you're going
to want to tool the caulk with a soapy solution on your finger. And, if
that soapy solution gets onto the old dry wood, it'll get absorbed and
then the paint won't stick to that wood unless you spend a lot of time
washing the residual soap out of the wood. An alternative is to tool
the joint with glycerine on your fingers. Then, the glycerine will
evaporate out of the wood completely over a couple of days, and you can
proceed directly with painting.
Ya gotta know this stuff to be king.
I use "saw wax" it will lube threads, drill bits, self drilling screws,
hacksaw blades, jigsaw blades, circular saw blades and handsaw blades.
It is a very useful item to have in a toolbox and I find different uses
for it all the time. Heck, I've even used it to lube lock mechanisms. ^_^
I think the tip of the day concept is a good one and I'd like to see a
lot of people participate. I've learned a lot of useful tips and labor
saving practices from other guys and gals through the years and I don't
mind passing them and the ones I came up with on my own. ^_^
Jump in any time. Not copyright or anything.
How do you find which multipin connector to
replace? What to check first when your data
processing POS system is winky blinky?
I expect you have plenty to contribute.
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
On 8/14/2013 3:51 PM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
Darn, hit the reply key instead of followup. Sent to you instead of the
I've had that problem. The outdoor coolers I service, very often they
are plugged into GFCI. And I arrive, and have to push the little reset
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
On 8/15/2013 12:11 AM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.