Table saw question

Does anyone have repair experience with the Delta "direct drive" (actually gear drive) table saw motor units ? Mine has been acting funny , has almost a "howling" sound under load , and today the blade stalled in a cut . Motor still at full RPM , blade dead stoppped and that noise coming from the motor unit . I know there is slippage in there , need to know if this is a major repair or just an overload device that I've , well , overloaded . If this turns out to be a big deal I'll just move the fence over to the "new" belt drive unit I got at a yard sale (25 bucks) . I did nurse it through cutting all the OSB pieces for the trusses I'm working on , so it's not time-critical for now . I'm suspecting the driven gear on the arbor shaft is pressed on and is slipping ...
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Snag



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First reaction would be to check to see if any of the shafts are keyed, if so, check and make sure none of the keys are sheared.
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On Mon, 21 Nov 2016 00:50:19 +0000, Stormin' Norman

My first reaction would be to check to see if the blade is tight. I had a circular saw that did not seem to hold a blade tight, no matter how tight I made it. It was a cheap saw that appeared to be needing brushes anyhow because of the sparks that came out of the holes by the motor. I just bought another saw rather than screw with it.
If it's not a loose blade, or a sheared key, you probably have a stripped gear, or a bad bearing which is allowing the gears to slip. If that's the case, you might have a costly repair, if you can even get parts for it. Delta is a good brand name though!
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snipped-for-privacy@southpark.example wrote:

A stripped gear wouldn't drive at all . Anything short of a stripped helical gear I can probably fix in the shop . Just gotta figure out the time/cost/benefit to see if it's worth my time . Thus the question about direct experience with these motor units . Blade is tight BTW .
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Stormin' Norman wrote:

That would involve disassembly and there's no time for that right now . I gotta get this roof on as soon as I can . Also , if it were a sheared key it would most likely not drive at all and/or make a different sound . Depending on what I find when I have time to dig into it there may be a key installed (I love having a machine shop) but more likely is that I'll start using the other saw I just bought .
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It could easily drive with a sheared key 1f the set screws were still in place. It would drive but slip as you have described. Regardless, I would stop using it or fix it before you completely destroy a shaft.
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Stormin' Norman wrote:

I'm done with it for now - and if I trash a shaft I can just make a new one on my lathe or repair the old one ... the only thing I can't do is helical gears . But why , when I have another saw that just needs a fence ?
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