Suggestion for cordless tool makers

Why not offer a CORDED battery replacement?

If the battery poops out, you could continue to use the tool with a cord - much like you can with a cell phone.

The working parts business of battery charger that comes with the tool is smaller than the battery itself, and could easily be fitted in a case the size of the battery.

In the alternative, why doesn't some clever entrepreneur concoct the device to sell as an after-market product? Certainly non-OEM battery replacements are available; why not power-cord replacements for the battery?

Heck, I've got some old batteries lying about, I might just try building a small DC power supply to fit in the scooped-out innards of one.

Just thinking out loud.

Reply to
HeyBub
Loading thread data ...

You should have patented it, next year they will be out, they just read your post.

Reply to
ransley

Someone has done this. I think Black&Decker.

Reply to
Cliff Hartle

"Cliff Hartle" wrote in news:hfb0b1$f15$ snipped-for-privacy@aioe.org:

but will not supply the high current drawn by the tool under load.

12V tools could use and adapter to plug into a car's cig lighter outlet,or be connected across one of those "jump starter" packs.

"Cliff Hartle" top-posted,screwing up the thread continuity;

several years ago,no longer made.

Reply to
Jim Yanik

My Firestorm came with 2 batteries. What's wrong with just swapping out the battery? My other battery will be recharged by the time I need it. If you need more than that, get an electric (corded) drill. I have a 1/2 inch plug in for heavy jobs.

Reply to
Van Chocstraw

I'm sure they all have it sewn up so that nobody can make anything to fit in the battery slot of their tools without their blessing :-(

re. running from charger, I doubt the charger has enough guts to provide the power to seriously run the tool (they'll be designed to charge the battery at a far lower rate than it can actually deliver), but a suitable PSU could be built to fit in the space of most batteries...

Reply to
Jules

I think there's a couple of reasons, a crummy reason and a good reason.

Crummy reason: Because it is very much part of their product strategy that when the batteries quit taking a charge a couple of years after purchase, *you buy a whole new tool*. There used to be companies that made affordable tools that lasted a homeowner's lifetime...where are they now? Gone, their brands walking among us like zombies, artificially animated by holding companies and investment funds. The smart money is in planned obsolescence.

Good reason: take this DeWalt that turns up on a random Google search:

formatting link
says it's a 510 Watt motor (it's rare to see Wattage quoted for cordless tools, but let's take this as typical) so that 18 V battery pack is putting out 28 Amps. The leftover power bricks you've got lying around from old cellphones put out *milli*-amps. Sure you can build or buy a 28 Amp 18 V power supply, but it ain't gonna fit in to the hollowed-out battery case, and you'll need booster cables to connect it to the tool.

Chip C Toronto

Reply to
Chip C

Its a great idea but physics gets in the way. :(

Take a look at a Malibu light 12v 300W power supply......its a brick. I doubt that a AC/DC power supply with enough poop to power a drill will fit in the comparable battery space.

So I think you;d be stuck "making" the low voltage DC "elsewhere" & supplying to the tool via a cord. Any appreciable power at lower volts require HIGH amps. High amps require BIG conductors to minimize voltage drop.

The whole battery thing works because of the asymmetric charge / discharge times & amperage demands.

btw I rigged up something like this to run my 12v Makita drill/drivers off my car battery but I had to use HEAVY cables (like good sized jumper cables). Working with them was like dragging a snake around with me. My light weight easy to use cordless drills were now less mobile than a corded 120v drill. :(

Good thing I made it out of stuff on hand & didn't buy the materials.

I think it is (was) a great idea.........but I couldn't get to work for me.

cheers Bob

Reply to
DD_BobK

Quote: "Heck, I've got some old batteries lying about, I might just try building a small DC power supply to fit in the scooped-out innards of one."

Been thinking the same!

An excellent basic idea; although I wish batteries were 'Universal'! And yes a power supply MIGHT be built into a dud battery case to power a cordless; although it would have to supply a much higher current capacity than that for just recharging a typical cordless battery, continuously, over a few hours!

Welcome any comments on the Calcs. below.

Also see my previous post about setting up two old truck batteries to power our 24 volt computer UPSs. And extending that to our main work bench. Our good neighbour mentioned recently that he's thinking of replacing his four transport truck batteries again; before, or during this winter. So although we have three of his previous ones they'd do fine. We also have an heavy old-timer 26 volt DC battery charger supply than can be modified etc.

If the 24 volt proves too high for a couple of the older 12/14 volt cordless drill with dud batteries and dud chargers am thinking of a 12 volt tap (to keep it simple) or a voltage regulator circuit to step down to say 18 volts. To date experiments seem to show that several of these older 12 volt cordless work fine on anything from 10 to 18 volts; although how much torque they'd have at 10 volts not yet checked. The idea being that the now useless cordless drills be used at the bench; we have some other newer cordless with good batteries and chargers that still work for outside/portable work. Typically a replacement Bosch charger was $70+, two new batteries around $50 each, total $170 plus shipping etc. for a Bosch set (including carrying case) originally bought for $150! Answer go out and buy new! Price planned obsolescence? We didn't buy another Bosch however!

Calcs: Typical cordless drill takes say 60 watts? That's 12 volts at 5 amps =3D 60 watts. Or maybe 100 watts, that's around 8 or 9 amps. If a typical cordless battery is 2.5 ampere hour it will last about 2.5/ 5 to 2.5/8 =3D 0.5 to 0.3 hours ( 12 to 30 minutes say) running time? So somewhere around 5 to 10 amps (at 12 to 18 volts) sounds about right?

Obviously a good idea brewing? And even if a typical cordless required say 150 watts that's still only 1.2 amps at 'mains supply voltage of

120 volts' .So lightweight lamp cord (18AWG) could be used for an AC wall plug-in part of it!. Certainly a lot bigger than a Wall-wart but sounds technically feasible?
Reply to
terry

Oh btw; tried running a cordless without any battery on DC from a small supply such as those supplied to power a CB radio. The PS was rated at around 3 amps. And it worked OK, without load on the drill. And proper polarity +/- was needed. Also tried same voltage AC (Approx. 12 volts RMS) and while the drill rotated and would reverse it obviuosly didn't like it; probably the speed controll/trgger not designed for AC! Same results with three cordless of different manufacturers.

Reply to
terry

Why not use one of those old fashioned drills, you know, the ones you plug into the electrical outlet in the wall?

Reply to
Tony

Quiet. These guys are re-inventing those.

Reply to
Bob F

I hear they are having problems with the AC batteries.

Reply to
Tony

Chuckle. I love my 24v cordless for small jobs, and it worked great for shooting screws when I had to blacksmith my tin shed that the tree fell on. But for any long screws or production work, I get out my real corded drill. Those other battery tools, like the baby rotary saws and such, seem like toys. I almost never need to do any work where 110 isn't available within 100 feet or so.

-- aem sends...

Reply to
aemeijers

-

Because we have three (all free) that have nothing wrong except dud batteries and/or dud chargers.And like most good technicians and conservationists one hates throwing anything that still works away! My AC work horses are a 1953, 230 volt, slow speed Wolf. One el cheapo

115v Black and Decker etc. bought on sale when K mart closed down here! And one used el cheapo, reversible? IIRC, bought at a flea market. A long extension equipped with a GFI provides safety. Also occasionally on the sail boat or in the camper, unless one has an inverter (and a fairly heavy one at that) only 12 volts is available. Oh and btw one of those hand-drills where you turn the handle.
Reply to
terry

I think that will get rectified!

Main thing is how to safely get the voltage down from 115 to the 12 to

18 volts or so to operate the previously battery operated drill.

OR; use the truck battery arrangement at the work-bench as previously mentioned!

Reply to
terry

Also the 2 kilowatt generator is awfully heavy to move around!

Reply to
terry

Years ago, an electronics teacher I had, told a story about one of the many pranks electronics geeks will play on each other. I'm guilty of quite a few but the prank the teacher told about was brilliant. There is always some smart ass who tells the new guy to go get an AC battery off the shelf in the back. Well, it was pulled on a new guy who was fresh out of tech school and of course knew everything. Well, he was told that AC batteries were a new item and that there was one on the shelf. The skeptical young man went to the back and sure enough, there, on the shelf was an item labeled AC battery. He took it back into the shop and handed it to the senior tech while saying that they were pulling his leg. The prankster told the newbie to watch this. When the battery was connected to an oscilloscope, it displayed a nice little

1.5 volts peak to peak sine wave. The guys in the shop had installed a little battery powered oscillator inside the empty casing of a D cell. The old regular D cells were basically a zinc can with a carbon rod connected to the + contact and they were relatively easy to open up and clean out.

TDD

Reply to
The Daring Dufas

Good one! Especially the sine wave! We charged up caps to a couple hundred volts, threw them at the new guy and said catch.

Reply to
Tony

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.