i posted this in the thread above, re: GFCI circuit protection
OK OK I have decided to run a subpanel. BUT cripes, while the subpanels are cheap, man, 8/3 AWG is PRICY. OK so using substantially cheaper 10/3 AWG gives me a 30A subpanel. I would think this would be sufficient:
2000W heater, plus antoher 1000W for outlets and such, gives me ~15A, assuming full useage? 30A seems like it would be sufficient, and a LOT cheaper. Comments? thx'bout 70-80 feet. i mean, compared with even 10/3. $1.73/ft at Lowes for UF cable (burial needed) = ~$140
This was wiring to a shed, How much load do you think he will have?
If he is really dumping more than 4800 wats of applince heat in there he can turn off the 2000w heater!
Even with the central air on my whole house only cruises at about 50a.
I just ran 8/3 the length of my house to install a transfer switch; it wasn't THAT expensive. How long do you have to run it?
It would be ashame to do all that work and find out a few years later that you needed the extra capacity. I relapse from time to time, but it is almost always best to do things the right way the first time.
You might wanna check out #6 aluminum SER cable.
Best regards, Bob
Original poster asked for comments. You don't have to read them if you don't want.
His first choice was 8/3 cable, and the #6 Aluminum SER that I suggested is equivalent but might be a lot cheaper.
Best regards, Bob
Except when fixing broken water lines...
You can't use 12 guage wire for a subpanel because the minimum feeder size is 30A. He might could run a 12/3 edison circuit instead of a subpanel; it kind of depends on whether that electric heater is 120V or
240V. (Technically it could still be done as a 20A branch circuit if it has both 120V and 240V loads, but I don't believe that's code compliant.)-Bob
Why can't a guy just put a circuit out to his shed without everyone saying he needs enough power to light up a small city or he will be sorry..
His original choice was 12-2 UF. He even bought the cable .
I am sorry Bob, I wasn't shooting at you directly. It just amazes me that anyone who asks for advice about running a wire out to a shed immediatly gets talked into a 60 - 100a subpanel.
BTW a multiwire circuit feeding 120 and 240v loads is legal
210.4(C)ex2That was my first suggestion. I also opened myself up to the flame war by suggesting 2 circuits, while not legal is not particularly unsafe.
If both of them landed in the same box with grouped disconnects you would be hard pressed to find the hazard.
If all you're doing is running lights, you can use an extension cord. Or batteries, for all anyone cares. But once you get down to running an actual circut, and adding heat (which implies "shop" as opposed to "shed") it's time to get real.
10/3 may be cutting it close depending on the load. How much will it cost to do it over when you find that you want more power? Sure pays to do it right the first time and have it be the only time.
He can. But if that is all he wanted to do, he'd have done it and not posted to a newsgroup that offers advice and opinions. What he does in the end is his business, but often a suggestion by others can save a lot of grief. I've read some rather simple sounding questions on this group and found replies that covered a lot of thing I never would have thought of in the situation. There is much knowledge (and some BS too) posted here that can make the DIYer a lot smarter.
You might want to try pricing the job using 1" (Or 3/4") schedule 40 PVC conduit and individual conductors instead of cable. I suggest that you use
3-#8's and 1-#10 for ground for a thirty amp feed because of the distance. You won't get much heat from an electric heater if it is experiencing voltage drop. Keep in mind that circuit breakers are only rated for 80% of their marked capacity for a continuous load (3 hours or more). I don't recommend aluminum wire for underground use.John Grabowski
For instance... I have run 2 120v and 1 240v circuit to my workshop over a period of 2 years; and would like a second 240v. I sure which I had just put in a subpanel.
It is definately code compliant as long as the breaker protecting the circuit is double pole or equipped with handle ties. Common trip is not required.
-- Tom Horne
"This alternating current stuff is just a fad. It is much too dangerous for general use." Thomas Alva Edison
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