Structural Pipe Flange?

[(PeteCresswell)]

I want to bread-board a lee board bracket for a sailing canoe as in

But, until I get proof-of-concept, I want to use something cheap - like galvanized pipe instead of dropping a bundle on stainless steel.

My problem is where the horizontal tube/pipe connects to the lee board. In the picture, he is using a marine "Stanction Bracket" that is designed to provide a certain amount of strength.

The pipe flanges I see at Home Depot (e.g.

don't look like they're going to take much of the kind of stress the lee board is going to put on it - mainly because the threads do not look deep enough.

Can anybody think of something else? Some term that I can Google?

Or am I over-thinking this?

[David L. Martel]

Pete,

I think that the galvanised flanges will work for a mock up and some test sails. Use two flanges., one on each side of the larboard. Have the threaded pipe go through the larboard and thread into both flanges. Tighten the flanges as if they were nuts to make a flange-larboard-flange sandwich. Using the bolt holes on one flange drill through the larboard and the other flange. Bolt both flanges and the larboard together. I' d really tighten these bolts. I'd use loctite to secure the pipe to the flanges.

Dave M.

[Dean Hoffman]

Would adding a pipe coupling nut to the bottom help enough?

[Vic Smith]

Those flange threads are plenty deep for a secure fitting. I used 2 of them - 3/4" - on porch ceiling joists to make a chinning bar with galvanized pipe. Used it almost daily for years. I weighed about 200 lbs then. It was always rock solid. Of course the flanges were flat on the joists. Your issue is turning it 90 degrees from the board, which requires welding on a bracket, unless you go with made-up wood bracket. Any weakness will be in that, not the threads.

[harryagain]

If you are concerned, you can buy weld on flanges. Pointless using galv. BTW on a temporary lash up.