I would use the thin cut-off wheel on a
moto-tool to cut a slot across
the head. Then use a flat screwdriver.
If the screw is a flat head, you
may have the use a small "easy out." as
others have suggested.
Joseph Meehan wrote:
Clamp a small pair of vise grips on the outside of the fastner to get the
screw started, then continue with whatever method (vise grips, fingers,
torx, et cetera) you prefer from then on out. If that doesn't work, slit
the screw and use a flat screwdriver.
You know, that would have been my first try, but the screws are
indented (bastards! <g>).
I have a Dremel tool, but now I'm wishing I had bought the vari-speed.
The full-speed one is great for cutting circuit boards, etc. but a bit
scarey in this application. I also don't like the thought of a blade
flying apart at such a rotational speed. I saw that with a sanding
disk once...Impressive enough.
Is there a light-weight, low-powered tool that does this kind of thing
well? Probably a small, versatile battery-powered drill of some kind.
Between a battery-powered screwdriver and a plugin Dremel.
You might try a "worn down" cutoff
wheel. When worn, the diameter can
be as small as 3/8". Not knowing the
exact geometry of the drive, it's hard
to know if this would work. You still
have to physically get the tool in the
area. BTW, use safety glasses ... these
wheels can fly when they break up
and they WILL break.
No. Heating the screw will make it expand, which will make it harder
Sears has screw extractors. Get the kind for screws that cannot be
drilled - the one that fits over the head of the screw and has
left-handed protrusions inside which grip the screw.
Go easy or you will snap the screw off. You should soak the threads in
anti-seize liquid like WD-40 overnight to help ease the unscrewing.
On Tue, 23 Aug 2005 13:20:55 GMT, email@example.com (Bob) wrote:
SInce the heads on these screws are probably protruding
above the casing, a high-tolernace pair of needle-nose
pliers might be used to turn them. Other alternatives
include using a high acid silver solder plus a clean torx
bit, soldering the torx bit into the screw head (Or at least
making an impression of the screw head even if they dont'
I have to wonder what gain there is in getting these screws
out though, if the drive is scrap anyway and they can't RMA
it, then maybe using a drill press to drill the head off is
If the screw head protrudes, you can cut a slot in it with a Dremel tool
cut-off wheel and use a conventional screwdriver on it. This of course
won't work if the cutoff wheel is too thick for the tiny screw, but the
lightest-duty cutoff wheel is pretty thin. I've used this method many
times for larger screws - works great.
On Wed, 24 Aug 2005 07:08:30 GMT, firstname.lastname@example.org (Bob) wrote:
The thread is old enough now that I've not retained the
first parts, don't remember if this is an external casing
holding the drive or a drive itself. If an external casing
the screws probably are recessed... and if memory serves
correctly, my Craftsman extractors are all larger than the
typical plastic recessions for smaller screws. It'd
probably work though if minor cosmetic damage was
On Wed, 24 Aug 2005 07:07:23 GMT, email@example.com (Bob) wrote:
Yes, but if the case is metal that shouldn't matter.
Heating and contraction (after cooling) might even help to
free it if it's stuck in a dissimilar metal case. It may
not be necessary to heat the screw though, I wasn't only
considering trying to solder the bit to the screw, but also
that if the bit with molten solder is inserted in the screw
head, the solder will still cool to the shape of the screw
head even if it doesn't adhere to it... and it was one of
the reasons I suggested silver solder (or something else
other than tin/lead) as it is tougher than std tin/lead.
Yes, you're missing that heat density high enough to melt
solder on a bit will not heat up and entire drive enough to
damage it. Ever noticed that things can be soldered and the
rest of the board isn't trash afterwards? Same situation,
except that it's an order of magnitude harder to heat up a
giant hunk of metal enough to do damage.
If someone has never soldered anything large in their entire
life, this certainly isn't the best project to start out
with... but generally speaking, it's rather trivial to heat
up a piece and not have it heat up a giant block of metal
connected by a mere millimeter or two of loose contact, very
much at all in the time it takes to melt a little solder.
I used to design, and build, printed circuit boards, so I'm more
than casually familiar with soldering techniques! <g>
What I'm not familiar with is the design of *this* particular hard
drive enclosure. Are sheet metal or machine screws used? Are they
driven into plastic or some type of threaded metal?
See where I'm going?
I think the moral of this endless saga is to RMA the bloody drive and
not try to take it apart.
Another lesson to be learned is that hard metal screws seize on
aluminum so you must lubricate before trying to unscrew. That's what
they make WD-40 for.
yes but I have no idea, I"d already deleted the rest of the
thread and too lazy to go hunt it down again. In any case,
it should not damage a drive as those are encased in metal,
it'd be a problem if the screw was in a plastic casing
though I'd be surprised if the screw was very hard to get
out of a plastic casing so I suppose I'd assumed metal.
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