Straightening twisted floor joists?

[GreenRaven]

I think the lumber was probably not too bad to start with, but the installation definitely was a problem. Even with what's going on (as well as some REALLY bad hack-n-slash plumbing notches which are a whole 'nother story and which we are in the process of fixing) none of the joists are cracked or checked. And the ones where enough blocking or bracing was done (under the kitchen) are still straight even at the beam, even without toenailing or overlapping, with just that lame plywood piece.

Liz

[DJ]

Not to be a stickler for detail, but try 30 years,

From the orginal post:

"We live in a small cheap 3 bedroom ranch built in 1976."

DJ

[BP]

"There are about 3 joists where movement is more than an inch. "

What!?! You've got to be exaggerating just a little! Are the joists made of balsa wood? I have seen 2x6 floors stiffer than that. Do you have a 300 pound linebacker jumping on the floor? How are you measuring the deflection?

You need to get some toe nails into the beam. And install the fireblocking. Can't hurt, might help. The bridging sounds like the real problem. That metal crap does nothing. I bet you will see the most noticeable improvement when you get the new bridging installed.

[GreenRaven]

It's not top to bottom where it's out an inch, what I'm looking at is if you sight down the straight joist opposite the bad one, how far is the bottom kicked out to the side - "/ " on the bad one compared to the good one.

I don't think this matters but I forgot to mention the place was a factory framed house that came as walls and trusses on a truck, then was put together on site. The place that built it - Harvest Homes - is still in business. I just wonder if the guy that put it together is ....

Thank you all for the help so far. It helps so much to just talk this out with knowledgeable folks. Carpentry isn't hubby's thing, though he's fine with plumbing and electrical, so the carpentry stuff usually ends up with me, even if it's just managing someone we hire to do it. I'm better with the saws than he is ;).

Liz

[BP]

Oh. That's better! "Movement" in the construction/engineering trades has a very specific meaning.

[Duane Bozarth]

...

...

FO

[DJ]

Ok, guess you didn't like that one, how about 29 years? I rounded up, you rounded down. OP indicates house built in 1976, I'm closer...

Neener, neener

DJ

[GreenRaven]

Sorry for the confusion, I'm not familiar enough with the lingo. BTW, what's the correct term for my joist problem? I searched Google for about 2 weeks trying every keyword I could find - "twisted", "rolling over", "sliding", "angled" etc. and ended up posting here when I couldn't find anyone else having the same situation I am. I was wondering if I just wasn't searching on the right words.

Liz

[Duane Bozarth]

What does 30 add over "20+" to the intent or content of the thread?

I didn't "round" I literalized w/o going back to look up what _specific_ year OP said as it wheter it was 20 or 30 years wasn't significant to the point I was making--that _a significant time_ had passed w/ not much sign of any real structural fault.

Other than the chance to put in a dig at someone, there was no point whatsoever in your posting afaict.

[Jeff]

Well. I'm sure that if you want to you could leaver the joist straight, but if it was me, I'd use a clamp. go to the hardware store and buy a two pair of 3/4' pipe clamps, the type furniture makers use to clamp glue ups and buy 2 pieces of black iron pipe. buy the biggest heavest clamps you can find, don't go cheap.

1. select a joist bay where the opening is wider at the bottom than at the top.
2. measure the distance at the top of the bay and cut your 2x10 bridging to fit.
3. drive the bridging into the bay and nail at the top.
4. use the pipe clamps to pull the joist together at the bottom closing the gap and pulling the twisted joist straight.
5. nail in the bridging in place at the bottom
6. before removing the clamps repeat steps 2, 3 & 4 on either side of the bay you just repaired
7. remove the clamps and replace them to span the three bay and repeat step

5 & 6.

1. continue.

Jeff

[Goedjn]

That will work fine too, as long as you're sure you know which joist is going to move when you start clamping.

[BP]

I would have tried all those words too. It's just too obscure an issue.

[DJ]

Probably more than your "FO", at least mine was relevant to the thread.

Lighten up, I was agreeing with you and going on to say it had been even longer "w/ not much sign of any real structural fault." I happen to remember the date mentioned by the OP, probably because my home is also of that vintage.

DJ

[RicodJour]

And an entirely different meaning in the medical trade. ;)

R

[BP]

LOL Rico..... D'jour. Very well done!