It's not top to bottom where it's out an inch, what I'm looking at is
if you sight down the straight joist opposite the bad one, how far is
the bottom kicked out to the side - "/ " on the bad one compared to
the good one.
I don't think this matters but I forgot to mention the place was a
factory framed house that came as walls and trusses on a truck, then
was put together on site. The place that built it - Harvest Homes -
is still in business. I just wonder if the guy that put it together is
Thank you all for the help so far. It helps so much to just talk this
out with knowledgeable folks. Carpentry isn't hubby's thing, though
he's fine with plumbing and electrical, so the carpentry stuff usually
ends up with me, even if it's just managing someone we hire to do it.
I'm better with the saws than he is ;).
Sorry for the confusion, I'm not familiar enough with the lingo.
BTW, what's the correct term for my joist problem? I searched Google
for about 2 weeks trying every keyword I could find - "twisted",
"rolling over", "sliding", "angled" etc. and ended up posting here when
I couldn't find anyone else having the same situation I am. I was
wondering if I just wasn't searching on the right words.
What does 30 add over "20+" to the intent or content of the thread?
I didn't "round" I literalized w/o going back to look up what _specific_
year OP said as it wheter it was 20 or 30 years wasn't significant to
the point I was making--that _a significant time_ had passed w/ not much
sign of any real structural fault.
Other than the chance to put in a dig at someone, there was no point
whatsoever in your posting afaict.
Probably more than your "FO", at least mine was relevant to the
Lighten up, I was agreeing with you and going on to say it had been
even longer "w/ not much sign of any real structural fault." I happen
to remember the date mentioned by the OP, probably because my home is
also of that vintage.
Yes, you can straighten the joists, but doing so may wall produce
nailpops and cracking wallboard above, because the plywood
subfloor is going to heave a little bit.
You build a big-ass wrench out of dimension lumber,
bolts, and plywood, sort of like a peavy with a fixed
tooth, and pry the joist vertical, and have someone
stuff blocking in there while you hold it.
Where there's something in the way so you can't
put in blocking, bridge across the bottom of the joists
with a 2x4 until you cross two joists that ARE blocked,
on each side.
(see www.goedjn.com/sketch/wrench.gif for the sketch
of the prying tool).
After doing the whole floor, inspect the topside
for things that have popped up.
Well. I'm sure that if you want to you could leaver the joist straight, but
if it was me, I'd use a clamp.
go to the hardware store and buy a two pair of 3/4' pipe clamps, the type
furniture makers use to clamp glue ups
and buy 2 pieces of black iron pipe. buy the biggest heavest clamps you can
find, don't go cheap.
1. select a joist bay where the opening is wider at the bottom than at the
2. measure the distance at the top of the bay and cut your 2x10 bridging to
3. drive the bridging into the bay and nail at the top.
4. use the pipe clamps to pull the joist together at the bottom closing the
gap and pulling the twisted joist straight.
5. nail in the bridging in place at the bottom
6. before removing the clamps repeat steps 2, 3 & 4 on either side of the
bay you just repaired
7. remove the clamps and replace them to span the three bay and repeat step
5 & 6.
On 16 Nov 2005 07:19:42 -0800, email@example.com wrote:
Just punch those guys and you will feel much better. They deserve it
and we all know you really want to do it.... :)
Heck, the sound waves generated by the punch might even twist them
boards back where they belong.
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