A floor refinishing company has told me they can stain our pine floors by
mixing one or two small cans of minwax stain with the Ace polyurethane
they use and apply both things together at once. I was under the
impression that you'd have to stain the floor first and then later apply
the polyurethane to seal it... Is the method they are proposing to do
really viable? Also, how many coats of polyurethane would be recommended
for pine floors?
As Edwin notes, it's doable. It's an advantage to them as they can
save a day in waiting for stain to dry before the first poly coat.
Disadvantage to you is that if the color isn't quite what you would
like it's much tougher to do anything to correct it. At least before
the finish coat goes on you can add a second coat to change tint and
possibly darken w/ little difficulty. More difficult if trying to do
it in the mix.
I'd want to see a sample section before giving the nod...
Sounds like they're mixing up a tinted glaze coat, which looks
better on pine than staining raw wood. Hit raw pine with
stain, and the color reverses, since the softer spring wood
drinks up stain much more than the harder, darker winter
wood. Ever wondered why construction plywood looks like
absolute crap when you stain it?
You can do that, but now the stain is contained within the
polyeurethane (not within the wood). The main problem is when the
floor is scratched, the whitish pine floor will show through.
The proper way is to stain the wood, then clear coat to protect it.
When the clear coat is scratched, it is only the clear coat that is
scratched, and it will age better.
The contractor won't care, because he's long gone.
There may be method to their madness, as pine is soft and can absorb
stain in inconsistent manner. Is this a new floor, never finished? Old
floor with old finish on it? Old floor, stripped?
The prettiest finish I have ever seen on pine was woodwork with only
sanding sealer used on it. When I finished some new pine furniture, I
made my own stain; artist oil colors in very dilute ms, oil and varnish
mixture. Let it dry and put clear varnish over it. Chose color that
would help counteract natural yellowing of pine as it ages. It worked.
If on bare wood, some of the finish would undoubtedly sink. I would get
more particulars from your floor company and ask to see their work.
We've been told by staff at both Lowes and the Do-It Center that minwax
polyshades is not made for use on floors and wouldn't be durable enough.
They recommended minwax "Prestain" as a first coat on the bare wood to
ensure more even coloration in the final result. It is supposed to harden
the soft areas of the pine, in a sense, so that they don't absorb so much
more of the stain. That's the route we're going to try, anyway. Thanks
for your input, everyone.
Visit www.refinishwizard.com forum and ask questions about your
concerns. Refinishing furniture often gets into stripping old finish,
sanding and applying a colored finish then several clear top coats to
protect the colored layer(s) from wear. Lots of different methods and
materials for coloring the finish. I use TransTint dyes from
www.homesteadfinishing.com that can be mixed with several different
finishes. Visit there and search for TransTint for more info. A
color chart is also available for viewing.
On Fri, 05 Jan 2007 20:45:02 -0600, "Amateur"
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