I just tried spray painting (compressor and spray gun) for the first time.
I water down the paint to 4 parts paint, 1 part water. The resulting paint
job is a little chalky or sandy. And the satin sheen is no where to be
seen. Meanwhile, my hand paint (with Purdy brush) job, while has a little
brush mark, but it retains the satin finish and looks and feels smoother to
How can I maintain the satin sheen with spray gun? Is it because I didn't
water it down properly?
thx in advance.
Cabinets again? You will never get great results with latex. You can get
a sprayed on finish quality with 2 paints made Ben Moore Impervo, and
P&L effecto both oils both around 35 a gallon. Purdy brush ? you think a
name makes it eh. For brush work with oil use Penetrol till its
smoother. You can paint glass with this and not see brush marks. But it
takes practice. weeks of practice . Spray, Why latex unless you refer
to wood trim. You need a real paint store with pros that have painted to
get your stuff from. not Borgs . Even Sherwin doesnt compare in finish
I found this paint rating website...
It's a bit old and probably only includes latex paint.
I'm actually quite happy with the BEHR paint and the Purdy brush. It levels
itself out very well.
I'm using the deposable NIOSH mask now. If I were to switch to alkyd-based
paint, I need the heavy duty "Mickey Mouse" mask. I can't stand the smell
of oil-based paint. Hope the Mickey mask is not too uncomfortable to wear.
Otherwise, I have to stick with latex paint.
BEHR paint instruction: "Thin no more than 1/2 pint per gallon...Use
airless sprayer 0.015 spray tip." What is airless sprayer? How do I find
out the tip size of a spray gun (I borrowed the gun from someone).
thx in advance
On Sat, 17 Jul 2004 01:09:05 -0400, "wendi"
An airless sprayer is one which doesn't rely on air to atomize the
finish. Basically they work by pumping the finish at a very high
pressure out of a small nozzle. In the case of the Behr finish, the
hole in the nozzle is 0.015 inches. That makes me think you are using
latex. If that's the case, that is not what I'd use on cabinets.
Airless sprayers are typically used for spraying houses or barns.
There is less "bounce back" or waste. However, a decent airless is
very expensive - usually over $1000.00.
I'm far from being an expert, but for cabinets, I'd much prefer
finishing with lacquer. It sprays beautifully, can be laid down with
a regular or, better yet, an HVLP gun. You can use NC
(nitrocellulose) or, if you don't have a proper spray booth handy,
water based lacquers. You can buy it gloss or semi-gloss right out of
the can. (any Sherwin Williams dealer can order it for you) If you
thin it, you need a simple Ford cup, which costs you only a few bucks.
I believe I use a number 4 cup. You dip it in the thinned paint and
time how long it takes to drain out the bottom. It should take 15 -
20 seconds - 18 is recommended for a .01 tip which is right for
lacquer in an HVLP gun.
Thank you. That's very helpful! I was going to switch from latex paint to
alkyd paint because of blocking (door and facing sticking together) issue
associated with latex paint. But I can't find a proper mask that fits me.
Home Depot only carries the medium size "Mickey Mouse" mask which does not
fit me. Water-based lacquer is a great alternative to alkyd-based paint.
Is lacquer less prone to blocking than latex paint?
-thx in advance
wrote (with possible
I asked about WB lacquer at SW and got a blank look. Jeff Jewitt can
color WB lacquer to match a color number and manufacturer (if memory
serves). Visit www.homesteadfinishing.com to look around and ask on
one of the Forums there. Or E-mail him firstname.lastname@example.org He's told
others to give him the data and he can match. I'm used the WB lacquer
and spraying 2 coats or more a day. Great stuff!
On Mon, 19 Jul 2004 01:03:32 -0400, "wendi"
Where did you get your WB lacquer? I checked out SW's website. They carry
a acrylic lacquer under contractor or industrial consumer's category. I
assume acrylic is WB. The DIY SW Retail probably does not carry it. As for
Benjamin Moore, I couldn't find any WB lacquer....
www.homesteadfinishing.com is Jeff Jewitts' site. He has WB lacquer
from two makers, Target Coatings and Fuhr. I've been using Targets'
Ultima Spray Lacquer for a while either clear gloss or colored with
TransTint dyes. If you have a makers color chip number Jeff can
probably match it with WB lacquer. Ask on on of the Forums on the
site. Be sure to wear a respirator and have plenty of ventilation. I
open the garage door about a foot, open a window in the back of the
garage and have a fan behind me as well as one in the window to
exhaust overspray. I've been spraying straight out of the can as the
viscosity is correct for my setup.
On Wed, 21 Jul 2004 01:04:37 -0400, "wendi"
<< How can I maintain the satin sheen with spray gun? >>
Use the right kind of spray gun. For heavy latex paints airless sprayers are
often the best choice. If you have a large enough compressor and the correct
nozzle assembly, an HVLP spray gun might do the job. Many painting contractors
use HVLP systems with dedicated compressors.
If you are using an old fashioned internal mix spray gun, experimenting with
paint type and thinning might get you decent results, but for that set up an
oil based paint may work better when thinned for spraying.
I'd suggest finding a dedicated paint store where the professionals buy there
stuff, and ask the counter chaps for their best advice. Good luck.
EXCEPT the overspray of oil based paint would be a killer! Floetrol
thins latex better than water, though 25% water sounds a bit much.
On 15 Jul 2004 23:05:42 GMT, email@example.com (Joe Bobst) wrote:
Yes, I have a HVLP spray gun and 10 cfm compressor. I have to thin the
primer and the paint down; otherwise, the nozzle tends to get clogged up
Oil-based paint is probably overkill for the look that I'm going for. I'm
going for the distress look, not the super, duper smooth look. The BEHR
paint actually levels out very well when using paint brush and in its
original form (not water down). I'm happy with the hand brush job. It just
take too long. There're a lot of trims. The spray gun is sooooo much
quickly. The drawback of the spray gun is that it gives a little bit of
texture. And the most disturbing thing is the sheen of the satin paint is
gone!?! I'm not sure if it's a result of the thinned paint or it's the
texture or both...
I'd use L&P if they have the color I want. But, they don't. I was planning
to try Sherwin Williams tomorrow. But someone mentioned that SW is not good
enough either? Please rate these stores...
1. Bejamin Moore
3. Edward Duncan
thx in advance
On Sat, 17 Jul 2004 00:57:06 -0400, "wendi"
If you lose the sheen, it usually means you are not spraying
correctly. The trick is to shoot enough to get the smooth satin
texture without orange peeling but not too much or you get sags. You
need to experiment a bit. With lacquer, you can thin with retarder
and it's a lot easier to do (at least for me), but you should be able
to use what you're using providing it's properly thinned.
As one other person said, part of the problem may be your technique.
You do not want to get the nozzle too far from the sprayed surface.
Latex is difficult (based on my experience and what others have
written). You definitely need to use floetrol up to the maximum
dilution as the main thinner to maintain gloss and then add a small
amount of water if needed.
A second point is temperature. You should be spraying at a fairly low
temperature such as 65-70, and definitely nothing over 75 degrees or
it dries too quickly.
Oil is much easier to work with and as far as the distressed look, my
piano is a distressed knotty pine and is of course clear finished in
laquer. Even if it were painted I certainly wouldn't want it to be in
You took on a major project for a first time using HVLP. There seems
to be a fairly short but steep learning curve. Don't get discouraged.
Thank you George for the encourage. This turned out to be a lot tougher
than I had anticipated. The garage is pretty hot. And, I was trying to do
many layer of fine mist which is exactly what not to do! Floetrol is new to
me. I assume I can get it from Sherwin Williams. Larry suggested using
lacquer if I don't want to deal with oil. How does that (lacquer) compare
to Latex+Floetrol? They're both water-based; hence; easy clean-up and no
thx in advance.
Should be able to get Floetrol at most paint places, certainly and
Home Depot and Lowes. Have never used water-based lacquer but it
should be much easier to apply and will provide a much harder surface
than any latex paint. You need to wear a mask (respirator) when
spraying anything. As for your mask problems, you should always be
wearing the "mickey mouse" type. Disposable types aren't adequate for
protection when spraying, you need to stop the aerosol particles and
the the chemical vapors (stink). The better masks should fit almost
anyone, may not be real comfortable but should seal against your face;
you would have to be very strange if a good mask won't seal.
Good Luck, you seem to be heading in the right direction.
See previous posts on the subject.
First you should have cleaned the cabinets, then sanded well, then
cleaned, then primed with an oil based primer, then sanded, then
cleaned, then primed with an oil based primer, then sanded, then
cleaned, then possibly one more round of primer, sanding, and
cleaning, and then and only then applied your first coat of oil based
paint, then sand, then clean, then a second coat of oil based paint,
then if you want a really good finish, one more round of sanding and
cleaning, and a final coat of oil based paint.
Progressively finer grades of sandpaper. Paint should be cured with
each round. Be meticulous about having a dust free work environment.
Practice your technique ahead of time. You can get great results with
this kind of painting regardless of brush or sprayer, it just takes
practice on how to thin the paint properly and if you wish to use any
There is no easy way to get the paint job you say you want. It takes
work. It takes elbow grease. Most of all, it takes time, which is why
no one hires out this kind of work anymore because the labor costs
would make it prohibitively expensive.
(Remove the Primes before e-mailing me)
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