Spackle vs. Patching Plaster, etc.

I have a variety of wallboard wounds to repair. There are some cracks, dings, screwholes, and a hole that's about 1.5" x 5". I find on the hardware store shelf "Vinyl Spackling", "Lightweight Vinyl Spackling", and "Patching Plaster". I already have a big tub of joint compound.

What's the difference between Spackle and Patching Plaster? The labels are almost identical. Why would I choose one over another? Can I use joint compound for these repairs?

Reply to
Nil
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Patching plaster shrinks less than spackle, and dries faster and harder.

For a hole 1.5 x 5 inches, I'd use patching plaster, but not filled quite all the way flush with the surface. Then after the plaster cures, lay on a thin coat of spackle.

Before applying the patching plaster, moisten the drywall with a sponge. Plaster cures by chemical reaction between the powder and the water. If you don't dampen the area around the patch, it will wick enough water out of the plaster to prevent it from curing around the edges, and the patch will not adhere well to the wall.

Reply to
Doug Miller

On 28 Jul 2004, snipped-for-privacy@milmac.com (Doug Miller) wrote in news:xeUNc.44360$ snipped-for-privacy@newssvr28.news.prodigy.com:

Thanks VERY much for the quick answer. Of course, none of the teenagers working at Ace had a clue.

So, would joint compound be a bad choice for these repairs? I would think it would be OK for screw holes and smallish dings and dents, and also to top off the larger hole repair instead of spackle. Yes?

Reply to
Nil

Patching plaster IS NOT sandable and is for plaster repairs.

Spackle is for filling tiny nail holes when you are in a hurry.

A sandable joint compound will work for all of your problems.

Best wishes.

Colbyt

Reply to
Colbyt

Not very suitable where you require something with strength or if you need to fill large holes. I have used Durabond (patching plaster) with both drywall and plaster with excellent results using joint compound only for the final coat. An electrician I know who does a lot of rewiring in older homes and ends up with holes to patch never uses joint compound.

Reply to
Alan

Tip: when you need advice in a hardware store, look for a guy with gray hair. Doesn't even matter if he's a customer and not an employee.

Well, there's joint compound, and then there's joint compound. The powdered stuff that you have to mix with water (typically labelled "setting-type joint compound") is essentially patching plaster. The premixed joint compound is the same thing as spackle.

Spackle is not suitable for filling holes much bigger than a pencil, or deeper than about 1/8", because (a) it very little strength, (b) it shrinks too much and cracks as it dries, and (c) the thicker you apply it, the longer it takes to dry, which means (d) large or deep patches need to be built up in multiple layers, allowing it to dry after each layer, which means (e) it takes forever.

Spackle does do well on shallow dents and dings, but for screw or nail holes, there's something even better: DAP Painter's Putty. (Which may well be the only product DAP ever made that's actually worth a hoot. If you ever need to re-glaze a window, don't even think about using DAP glazing compound. Go back to that Ace hardware, and buy some of the Ace-brand stuff. It's really good.) But I digress... Anyway, the DAP Painter's Putty can be smoothed out with your finger, and painted over far sooner than spackle or plaster. A little goes a *long* way, though. Don't buy it in a quart can, you won't use it up in your lifetime. Look for it in half-pint cans. I think Lowe's has it in that size.

Reply to
Doug Miller

Some are, some aren't. Durabond sands fairly readily IME, but most others won't.

Reply to
Doug Miller

Doug,

Unless you are buying a Durobond product I have not, I have to disagree with your statement.

If it does not say Sandable on the package, it isn't.

Durobond is an excellent quick setting product for filling large areas to a sub surface level. But for the average DYI person it is not suitable for the final top coat which will need some sanding to look proper.

Colbyt

Reply to
Colbyt

Reply to
George E. Cawthon

plain old acrylic caulk works well for screw and nail holes, but like you said you need to smooth it out with your finger. However his joint compound will work just as well.

Reply to
George E. Cawthon

The stuff I'm talking about comes in a carboard package the size and shape of a half-gallon milk container. Haven't seen it at any of the home centers recently, though, and I'm not sure it's still made.

True enough.

No argument there either.

Reply to
Doug Miller

replying to Colbyt, Clooney wrote: Oh, great...I just plastered the heck out of the walls in my laundry room. And now you tell me I can't sand it. Well, dang...

Reply to
Clooney

They told you that 13 years ago.

Sand it with gerbils.

Reply to
DerbyDad03

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