That depends entirely on the spa, and what equipment it has. Read the
installation manual for your spa for the correct information. If, for some
reason you do not have the manual, contact the manufacturer and get it.
Well, the problem is that our spa is kind of mix-and-match. We just got
it used from a friend. Its a Swirl-Way shell, hayward pump and raypack
gas heater but other than that...i couldnt say.
Most, if not all spa makers use components from other companies. Try contacting
Swirl-Way. They probably built the whole thing. You could also try asking your
friend some details about how it was installed at his house. What size breaker
did he use?
My personal advice would be to do the installation with your NEXT spa in mind.
Spas don't last forever! Put in a bigger service than you need for this one, so
you won't end up doing the job twice. The breaker and heavier wiring is
expensive, but it's really not THAT expensive.
You just told him to fuse his Spa's motor at 50A! If a fault happens in
the motor, the windings are going to melt and burn before that breaker
trips. Chances are the wiring under the spa will burn too.
Evan: You may want to consider an electrician for this job, it involves
water and the risk of shock is very real. If you're really convinced to do
it yourself, there should be a metal plate or sticker on the pump motor that
will indicate amperage and whatever you do, get it inspected before you
energize the circuit. Absolutly do not fuse this thing at 50amps, it
doesn't have an electric heater and as thus is not designed for that
> >BinaryBillTheSailor@Sea++.com wrote: > >> On Sun, 19 Oct 2003 14:38:31 -0500, "E. Platt"
Except on a unit with an electric heater, the pump is protected
seperately, either a via a small fuse panel, inline fuse, or breaker in the
motor housing it's self. On a gas unit this reasoning does not always
follow. Also keep in mind the OP said this was a used unit, aquired from a
friend. Even if new standards say to have fuses somewhere in the gas spa,
this unit might not.
And how am I protected? Unless there is overcurrent protection at the
point of connection I am not. As another poster indicated, yes spas are
sometimes equiped with there own fusing however nothing in the original
poster's message would indicate this is the case here.
In fact, I have seen a gas heated spa that was rated to be connected to
a maximum 20amp (12ga) connection. By your reasoning, I should really be
able to connect it at 50amps, because you said so.
The point is, you do not know (because you are not there) that the OPs
spa is rated to be fused at 50amps, yet you told him it could be. It is
always best to error on the side of caution.
All spas sold in the U.S. have this protection. All of them.
Whatever pumps and heaters are used are powered through a control. The
Service runs to the control, not directly to the pump. If it did, the
pump would ALWAYS BE ON AND YOU COULDN"T TURN IT OFF.
Based on what you say, I don't believe for a second that you have ever
installed a spa, or know anything about them. Maybe you were in one
"1.Use only a dedicated electrical line with a 20-amp breaker."
But I suppose the people who designed these spas have never been in
them, right? Or is it that the just don't know what they're talking about?
I bet you pissed yourself in a mentally retarded glee when you figured
this one out. Here's some news for you: That control does not neccisarily
contain any fusing, unless you're hoping the relays will be the first to
melt.... Since you probably don't know what a relay is, we'll just call it
'magic electrical stuff' to make it simple for you.
You should get together with the handyman from the "What happens
when..." thread, you'd make a great team! :)
You've completely missed the point, which isn't surprising. This is a
GAS HEATED SPA which means it is probably a 120 volt pump, with maybe some
lights. Not only that but it is an older, used unit (read: Not certified to
today's codes). There is no gaurntee that there is OC protection other than
the breaker at the fuse panel.
I worked for 2 years as an electrician apprentice, and installed 3
during that time. 2 were gas heated, one was electrically heated. Both of
the gas units were 120volts and were rated for not more than a 20 amp 120v
feeder. The control did not contain fusing since if installed correctly, it
was unnecessary. The electric unit was fed by a 220v, 50amp circuit and
yes, it had push-button reset breakers underneath.
If you ever need a spa installed, call a pro. You're obviously not one.
Many spas have additional fuses in the control circuitry, located
inside the spa.
Mine is powered via a 60A GFCI breaker. The control panel has
individual cartridge fuses for the three motors, the heater, and the
control system itself. No single component is capable of drawing the
I'd check the actual spa, then go with the big feed, if other
protection is present.
message wrote:> Mine is powered via a 60A GFCI breaker. The control panel has
Barry: My problem wasn't neccisarily with the bigger feed if it was
possible to do so. The problem is that BinaryBill should not have
automaticly assumed additional protection was there. Your advice to check
for other protection first is sound, whereas Bill's "wing it and pray"
method could hurt someone.
ALL spas sold in the U.S. have the necessary protection.
I am not assuming anything. You can safely run a 500 amp service to
the spa if you wanted to for some reason. The size of the service to
the spa is irrelevant, as long as it is at least large enough to
handle the load and has a GFCI breaker.
Alright Ill interject here again. It makes sense to me that the current
could be as high as you want it with a GFCI breaker. If I understand
correctly how the breaker works, it just compares the current on each
leg, tripping if theres a difference reguardless of the supposed
current. As it is, we havnt bought the new conrol yet so I cant tell
you about that. The old control was a metal box with two contactors, a
transformer and a couple switches so I dont think there was any fusing
in the control although there might be one in the motor. Ill check on
Spas normally have a wiring diagram, or look up the Hayward pump
requirements. By the way, only one pump, no blower or lighting? No
wonder your friend got rid of it... :)
On Sun, 19 Oct 2003 16:06:33 -0500, "E. Platt"
Sounds like your friend rewired (or someone did) the unit to bypass
the manufacturer's controls (and removed the control entirely).
Possibly a unit that was removed from a rotting surround and now is an
in-deck install or the like. This isn't necessarily bad or even
uncommon, though it's often against code since noibody seems to wire
the control switches far enough away. New controllers can be ordered,
even those for electric heaters which include the element only run a
few hundred dollars. Less than a new spa.
You may want *two* types of repair people there, one the
dealer/manufacturer repair guy and the other a licensed electrician.
I know plenty of electricians who can't/won't work on a spa beyond
wiring the feed, and plenty of service people who won't touch the
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.