12 HP Honda single - BCS walkbehind, single-stage snowblower attachment.
Crude as it is, this thing has always been something of a beast....
chewing it's way through all kinds of stuff.
Had it out for a couple hours today in 18-24" of the white and fluffy...
and it seems to me like it's only putting out maybe 1/2 or 2/3 of it's
Along with that, something has frozen in the throttle linkage so it only
goes full-bore.... got it in the garage thawing out right now.
Assuming the throttle linkage is a separate/unrelated issue, can anybody
suggest what I am looking for to explain the power loss ?
No smoke, so I am guessing I haven't broken a ring...
My first thoughts are to examine the simple
things. Air filter? Fuel filter? Water in
the fuel? Always inspect the spark plug.
Oil level full?
Online troubleshooting manual maybe out there
for you? Did you read your own manual that came
with the machine?
On Sat, 23 Jan 2016 18:00:27 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
If it has a "snowblower" engine it has no filter and has a preheat
box in it's place. B&S SnowKing is a good example, and the Techumseh
HS series another. The Honda and Yamerhammer blowers also have no
Any blower with an air filter is highly likely to run poorly if at all
in "typical" winter weather while blowing snow.
On Saturday, January 23, 2016 at 10:02:40 PM UTC-5, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
B&S SnowKing? I don't think that's a good example, since it doesn't exist.
I know...I was just playing around, but they (it?) are out there.
I look at some of the other videos that that guy did trying to figure
out what kind of snow blower that was. In another video he explained
how to adjust the auger *chain*.
One of the comments below the video read:
"John how about tips on a snow blower that was built in this century?"
Now that's funny!
That's an interesting observation for me - because this thing is
basically a multi-purpose walk-behind tractor... so it the engine does
have an air filter.
(BCS.... poor build quality + poor design + a design that never got
tweaked for the inevitable bugs after release)
It's the next day now and it's thoroughly thawed out from sitting in a
heated area all night.
I'm going to fire it up and see what happens.
If there the power is still lacking, I'll start taking things apart.
If the power drops off again, I'll pull the air filter and see what
Thanks for the insights.
Yup.... Miracle cure. Back to full power and responsive throttle.
But now it is surging most of the time and occasionally backfiring on
This thing must be 10 years old and has never had points or plug
Points/plug would be the likely cause, right ?
I'd try running some Seafoam or similar through it . There's been a
discussion going on about surging over at the Kohler Engine group ,
consensus is it's likely caused by a lean condition at full throttle . If
yours has an adjustable main jet try opening the screw a quarter turn and
see what that does . My little Rusty Tractor surges too , I just read about
this and haven't had a chance to try the adjustment . It didn't do this
until after I rebuilt the motor ...
On Mon, 25 Jan 2016 08:59:46 -0500, Stormin Mormon
Too lean will cause both. Don't screw with the governor unless you
know EXACTLY what you are doing.
Being an "old" machine it will have an adjustable high speed jet as
well as an adjustable low speed jet.
Crank the high speed jet out 1/4 turn or so and see what happens.
If it surges at idle you may need to crank the idle mix screw out.
More likely water in the gas - it'll fart and backfire like crazy
from being too lean. Out some "sea foam" in and open the main jet 1/4
turn. After running the sea-foam through you MAY be able to turn the
jet screw back in again,
First off, lube that cable while its warm.
After 10 years, new plug, points and condenser is a good idea.
You might also have crud in the fuel bowl on the carburator. A complete
carb rebuild would be the best, but at least remove the bowl and clean
out the crud. If a fuel filter exists, replace it.
Surging is often the result of the governor needing adjustment, but
could also be caused by insufficient fuel getting to the engine. I'd
suggest doing the (above) things to the carb first, and adjusting the
carb too. Then if that dont do it, get the factory specs for adjusting
the governor (and carb adjustments).
Backfiring is a result of the timing being off. On a small engine, that
is set by proper afjustment of points and making sure the flywheel is
positioned correctly (no sheared key), and the correct gap exists
between the magneto and the flywheel. (a sheet of newspaper is about
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