Satan. I have a Uniden cordless phone with a beltclip and every time you
bump into something, it tries to call the last number dialed and often
succeeds. There's no way to lock out the keypad when carrying it around.
I have a Panasonic VCR remote that requires you to push two buttons to
record. Unfortunately, they are the two highest buttons on the remote and
if you put it down button-side down the weight of the unit presses on the
two record buttons at the same time and the unit begins to record over
whatever tape was in the unit. It even happens if you drop the remote the
I have a new Nikon SLR that I have yet to figure out how to turn the flash
off other than holding the pop up flash-head manually which is harder than
you might think. It's certainly not intuitive.
You should have five fires and five CO emergencies, to evaluate this
aspect of the detector. A hundred would be better, but I'll settle for
10. I'm glad you found what you wanted and that you posted it.
Thanks. I looked into that, along with calling both my firehouse and his
(they just closed it a month ago, so they were not of much help!) to see
what programs were available. The DoD reimbursement had to be done their
way, which meant maybe waiting 6 weeks or more for the unit because they
have to approve it first. I didn't feel comfortable waiting, nor do I like
to spend a lot more for stuff just because it's got a "medical" label on it.
Thank god the FirstAlert unit does the trick and for even less than the
reimbursed price of one of the speciality units. That means I can get more
of them to spread around the house.
I haven't followed the entire thread, so don't know the solution. With
an elderly person with such severe hearing loss, he might be eligible
for special alarms...either as handicapped or elderly person. I suppose
you have checked with the fire department?
* The industry has recently recognized the problem
* First Alert offers some speaking alarms, with warbling three-beep tones,
that work well starting around $40.
* There are also (much) more expensive and specialized versions.
Thanks for the summary. I'd add that my friend's hearing loss is bad, but
he's nowhere near deaf. What happens as many people get older is that their
ability to hear very high frequencies decays rapidly. "Aging ear" is so
prevalent that it allows kids to create ring tones only other kids (mostly)
and by to drive them away from certain areas with high frequency sounders:
I was always dubious about those ultrasonic pest devices, but we now have
proof that it works with at least one pest. the common spotted teenager.
FYI: I just learned (by reading the plastic package these thincs
com in) that there are TWO types of, well, FIRE alarms:
1: SMOKE alarms, that work via PHOTOCELL -- and this kind has
a "P" on the package.
2: the kind that works via some wee radioactive thing, that
senses, I think, the FIRE. It has some OTHER single-letter
printed on the package.
The instructions advised have BOTH types. Unfortunately,
Costco (where I shop) seems to have only the P-marked
Walmart (on the Web) sells a First Alert Detector that uses both methods and
can be remote controlled via a TV remote control to cancel unwanted alarms
or to test the systems. Costs 19.96 Best Buy rating in Consumer Reports
Somewhere towards the beginning of this thread I saw (but
cannot find it now) a post with the suggestion to:
Dig into the thing, disconnect the alarm, and wire
on instead something really LOUD, LOW PITCHED, etc.
To me, that's a pretty good way to go.
Measure the voltage when it's beeping (er, trying to
beep), then go buy a relay that works at that voltage,
hook up some HIGHER voltage or power source to the
other end of the relay that goes to eg some electric
version of a truck horn, or fire-engine siren (hell,
maybe an ordinary siren (a la Odysseus on his way back
from Troy, having himself tied to the ship's mast --
which if that doesn't get him "up", I don't know what will!),
something like that.
Or maybe hooked to an install-it-yourself burglar-alarm,
with horns distributed througout the house.
What *I*'d like to do is somehow get into my APC UPS --
you know, that big HEAVY battery-plus-electonics box
you plug into the wall, and then your computer into it.
There's NO WAY that I'm going to hear the beep-beep-beep-beeping
sound if I'm up or downstairs from it, and the circuit blows,
OR if I'm listening to music or whatever via earphones,
OR if I'm asleep or napping (with the bedroom door closed).
Thinking along as I write this thing, maybe that burglar-alarm
idea isn't so bad.
ESPECIALLY if it has TWO kinds of beeps, eg one for burglar,
and another for one of those around-the-neck "HELP -- I'm
in trouble (fell down the stairs, ...)", and use that 2nd
one for the UPS.
(I sure don't want to go rushing around the house finding
out which computer UPS it is when there's actually
an armed burglar loose in the house!)
Anyone have any ideas on HOW to do this, to get into the
UPS to wire something (eg a relay) in parallel to its beeper?
Unless, of course, there doesn't appear to be a "right purpose" device
and the alteration improves the function for the specific purpose.
Which specific Code section are we violating here? Manufacturers'
warranties, etc., sure, but I'm not sure Code covers modifications for
If a function can't be achieved w/ off-the-shelf components then that's
saying complying w/ Code overrules accomplishing the task. That's an
over-application of the Code w/ the letter overruling the intent.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.