After putting a certain brand of tp down this toilet, it drains very slowly.
Its been doing this for a while now and I cant plunge it out or get my auger
in there. The auger doesn't seem to be able to slide around the curves
easily. Would grease on this thing actually help this? What other
alternatives do I have besides taking the toilet loose to clear the clog?
On Sat, 31 Mar 2007 12:25:19 -0400, email@example.com wrote:
I found four or five Q-Tips in one toilet. I had removed the toilet
and had it outside with a water hose for cleaning. Looked like they
had make-up on them. They never cleared when flushed; kinda rotated
around in the toilet.
The worst case I've seen was a syringe stuck the bowl rim, clogging
flush vents. We called this the krack house. I helped a Realtor with a
bad toilet. When I put muriatic acid in to clean the rim vents if
floated up. Lord knows how it got there.
"equal opportunity, not equal results"
I don't know. I give! The next time I drop my reading glasses in the
bowl I will follow past practice - go get 'em.
For girly-stuff, also.
That was the only reason I could figure at the time; since the syringe
got past the flapper and into the bowl rim. I had never used the
hallerb trick with acid. While I had the tank off I poured the acid in
to clean the vents. It floated up and at first glace I figured, here
is a q-tip. Grabbed needle nose plier, grabbed it and shazzammm a
Certain familiy members who shall remain unnamed decided that flushing non
biodegradable wet wipes was acceptable, despite the bold warning on the package
that flushing was not recommended.
First (and last) time I had to clear a main drain between the house and the
Just found a previous posting than may be your problem. Hopefully
your problem is just the toilet paper.
Beginning of re-post:
I had a toilet a few years ago that had similar problems.
In the end it turned out that my teen age daughter dropped a stick
of deodorant into the toilet. Instead of doing the awful thing of
reaching into the toilet bowl she decided to just flush the problem
away. The stick made the turn around the first part of the S curve but
couldn't go any further. It was stuck in the middle of the S curve. It
was not visible and a toilet auger would just bypass it. I tied a
three prong fish hook to a sturdy string and flushed it. It would
catch something but couldn't pull it out.
I finally took the toilet outside and maneuvered a 1/4 inch rope
through the S curve and tied the rope to an old fashioned mop head. I
attempted to pull the mop head backwards through the S curve and
with it the obstruction but this didn't work either.
I still had no idea what the obstruction was. My daughter never
admitted to having any knowledge of the missing stick of deodorant.
After a few months of putting up with a toilet that would clog easily
I took matters into my own hand. HAMMER! DEODORANT! ANGRY!
After I calmed down I went to Home Depot to get a new toilet. It
was only then that I discovered that the size (3.5 gallon) and the
color (Harvest Gold) was not available. I settled for a 1.6 gallon
A few years went by with my mis-matched toilet and then my neighbor
had a garage sale. In the sale he had his old 3.5 gallon Harvest Gold
toilet left over from his updated bathroom with a "free" sign on it.
Bingo. I'm back to being matched again with my 70's style bathroom.
P.S. I do not have a avocado refrigerator
You really don't want to use any kind of auger through the toilet. Aside from
being difficult to get through the trap and other curves, you'll scratch the
finish off the glaze in no time. That looks lousy in the visible parts and slows
down flushing in the hidden parts.
It's really not that hard to remove the toilet. Get over the ick factor and just
do it. Check the toilet for blockage and the auger out the pipe as required.
Take care when replacing. Do not reuse the old wax ring. Scrape it away and
repace with a new one. Do not overtighten the nuts - you will crack the base.
Recaulk as required.
A decent closet auger has a rubber or plastic sheath covering the L-bend
part of the auger guide tube, so it won't scratch the visible parts of
(I've had my closet auger for so long that the red rubber sheath dried
up and fell off, so it's now wrapped with duck tape, which does the same
While I hear you about scratching inside the trap, it's hard for me to
believe that the few scratches you might put there from infrequent uses
of a closet auger would really hinder flushing that much. Some toilets
get away without even glazing the trap all the way through.
As Jeff said or implied, there are toilets where much/most of the
non-visible parts aren't glazed. I would think some of that would be
underwater all the time. (People here have said that for a 1.6 gallon
toilet, one should be sure to get "fully glazed", for good flushing.)
And they sell dishes that aren't glazed. Not exactly the same
material I suppose, but one could fill a dish with water and let it
sit for a few weeks and see if it leaked. If it didn't, other
materials might not either.
Sweating is most commonly observed on glazed surfaces, the side of the
toilet tank. Because humid air leaves condensation on the colder tank
surface. I don't think glazing makes much difference.
You have not been using those blue tablets or other devices to keep it
clean have you? They are noted for causing problems. A blocked vent can
also cause the problem. Other than that I suggest a closet auger to clean
it out or just give it time to fall apart and move.
The auger you refer to IS a "closet auger" I presume. If not, get one.
I don't think grease will do anything to help, the water should provide
I've never encounteed a toilet I couldn't get a closet auger to go through.
Maybe it's not just the TP used. Are you sure that something HARD, like
a prescription pill bottle maybe, didn't get flushed and is now blocking
most of the area of the trap passage?
Have you already pulled the toilet once and cleared it out from the bottom?
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