Sidewalk concrete patch

Re: Sidewalk concrete patch

Greetings,

I live on a hill. Everything shifts a little as time goes by.

My concrete sidewalk slabs misalign. The corner of one will elevate up to about 3/4" above the adjoining one.

So folks won't stub their toes, I've patched such places with vinyl concrete patch and regular concrete mix. Neither lasts thru a winter before cracking to hell and gone.

Anyone know of a better patching substance to use in this situation?

TIA, Puddin'

Reply to
Puddin' Man
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The only fix is to tear it out and replace it with a good foundation below the frost line. You can even add a little rebar.

Reply to
Joseph Meehan

I've heard you can move the slab to fit it better. I know a 75 year old guy who did it himself.

Reply to
New & Improved - N/F John

-snip-

I don't know if our sidewalks are similar or if you can do this, but. . . My [30 year old?] sidewalk is 4" thick concrete laid out in mostly 36" squares. There is no rebar tieing them together.

Two winters ago I went through and 'leveled' my sidewalk with pressure treated wooden shims.

First I cut an assortment of shims from 1x6 pressure treated. I used

6" lengths and tapered the last 5" down to points. [If I remember right I ripped them into 1x2 1/2 before tapering.]

Next locate the highest point & mark the grade with a string on each side of the sidewalk. Then work both ways from there, digging out the sod beside the joint so you can get your wedges in.

I laid a 6x6" piece with the grain following the sidewalk & straddling the joint in each spot I needed to shim, driving it under the sidewalk with a 3lb hammer. Then I shimmed the two sides separately until they were level-- and cut off the excess.

This was done as a temporary measure as I intend to replace the sidewalk with pavers at some point and I thought I'd have to adjust it in the spring, but it has gone without shifting for 2 winters now.

Jim

Reply to
Jim Elbrecht

I've got one 36 x 55 x maybe 4" slab that's all cockeyed, slid down the hill maybe 2 ". I'd *love* to be able to reseat it.

I thought of this but couldn't figger how to move it. Can't do it by brute force: I'm 130 lbs and my back is funny. Don't know any Suma wrestlers ... :-)

If you've any details on how he did it, I'm all ears.

Thanx, Puddin'

Reply to
Puddin' Man

Pretty much same here.

So far, so good ...

Could be I'm losing you, here.

Definitely losing you, here.

The shim is 2.5 " wide, 6" long, and tapered? What is the 6 x 6"??

You gotta dig 4+" down and 2.5 " wide and maybe 10 " length so you can swing a hammer in the slot? And it raises the hideously heavy slab without splintering the shims?

Use a post-hole digger, maybe?

Knock on wood. S'long as it works, beats hell outa spending $3k on a contractor or breaking your back ...

Thanks, Puddin'

Reply to
Puddin' Man

We might have a different problem. Mine was frost heave of a few slabs. As I reread your post I wonder if you have slabs slipping sideways.

Just a piece of 1x6, 6" long. It serves as a 'footing' for the shims.

That sounds about right. The shims will take it. You're only lifting about 50lbs. If a shim starts to splinter it is probably because it hit a rough spot in the slab. Slip another between the shim and 'footer' and try again.

I used a round shovel & replaced the sod when done. In a month you couldn't tell where I'd dug.

Amen. My brother in law, who has worked construction all his life, suggested taking all the blocks out, leveling a base & replacing them. [Of course 'on the job' he would be assisted with a back-hoe to lift the slabs and replace them.]

Jim

Reply to
Jim Elbrecht

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