On Thursday, December 1, 2016 at 10:10:37 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
Probably so. When I replaced my kitchen sink faucet, I couldn't finish the job that night so I capped the lines and turned the water back on. I still have those caps but they are threaded and who knows what I'll find inside the wall.
On Friday, December 2, 2016 at 8:27:08 AM UTC-5, TimR wrote:
Threaded to Solid SharkBite adapters:
When you are ready to un-cap, use the appropriate SharkBite connector
from the threaded adapter to your copper or Pex to the new fixture.
Or use a SharkBite Shutoff on the threaded adapter:
Obviously, you need to open the wall to see what you have, but you don't
have to cut anything right away. Open the wall, plan the job, buy the
parts. As a grizzled old plumber once said to me:
"Buy everything you think you might possibly need. It can all be returned."
Interesting. I guess you'll just have to see what you have after you open
up the wall above the vanity and behind the large vanity mirror. Another
option may be to also go ahead and remove the vanity/sink combo below to
access that part of the wall. That is often fairly easy to do, and I assume
that would give you access to the tub drain fittngs. If you were able to do
that, you may also be able to create an access panel behind the vanity/sink
combo for future use.
If you do open the wall up from the back (behind the large vanity mirror),
and you find that the shower faucet handle mechanism is down too low to work
on it, then you may have 2 options.
One option would be to remove the vanity/sink combo to gain more access from
But, another option may be to change the plan a little and replace the
fixture from the front through the tile shower wall. I know you wanted to
avoid that, if possible, but it may be an option to consider. You could
take out enough whole tiles to access the shower faucet that you have now,
and replace them afterward with the extras that you said you have. But, you
would have to figure out how to create the two holes for the 2-handle
replacement faucet (or maybe save the old tiles for that part).
Or, as the person did in this video (
https://www.youtube.com/watch?vMwVRaLabSg ), maybe you could do it all
from the front and replace the existing 2-handle faucet with a single handle
Do you have access to the hot water tank? Sometimes, the incoming cold
water supply is a 3/4 line that goes directly to the hot water tank first,
and then splits off to 1/2 inch for cold water for the house right before
the hot water tank, and hot water for the house coming out of the hot water
tank. This isn't common unless the hot water tank happens to be near where
the cold water line comes into the house. But, if you have that setup, you
may be able to put a whole house shutoff valve in the 3/4-inch line going to
the hot water tank (before where the cold water splits off away from the hot
water tank). Just a thought.
I was thinking about that while taking a shower last night in my old style
(with old pink tile) tub and shower which has a 3-handle shower faucet
What I noticed is that my 3-handle shower faucet system is down pretty low
and is only slightly above the tub faucet. Just a quick guess is that maybe
my 3-handle shower faucet is only about 24 inches above the floor level in
the bathroom (I didn't think to measure the height last night).
If you have something similar, and you have a vanity sink and cabinet on the
wall behind the shower faucet, maybe your shower faucet is already below the
top of the vanity sink. If so, you won't be able to access the shower
faucet assembly from the other side without gaining access behind the vanity
You probably already did this, but be sure to check how high up your
2-handle shower fixture is above the floor level. Then measure that far up
on to wall on the other side to see how you would gain access to it from the
wall on the other side. I have a hunch that either the vanity sink/cabinet
will have to be removed, or you will have to do the job from the tile sided
of the shower.
If you don't mind, could you post back how high up off the bathroom floor
level your 2-handle shower faucet is?
On Saturday, December 3, 2016 at 11:35:36 AM UTC-5, TomR wrote:
You hit on my worst fear.
The vanity is 32 inches off the floor but it has a 4 inch ledge that the mirror sits on, so effectively 36 inches.
The shower faucet centerline is at 45 inches.
So I have tight but doable space to work in.
I will be back with more results after I get the wall open, but that's going to be a couple of weeks while my family gets their junk (cosmetics, earrgins, all the assorted crap that accumulates) out of the way and I can get to work.
Interesting. That sounds like it will probably work with you just opening
the wall behind the mirror that is above the vanity sink.
But, if you need a little more room, you may be able to get that fairly
easily by leaving the vanity base cabinet in place and just removing the
sink off the top of the base cabinet. Of course, that will only work if the
4-inch ledge is part of the sink fixture. If the 4-inch ledge is part of
the cabinet structure, obviously that won't work.
It sounds like you have this mostly figured out and everything will probably
On Saturday, December 3, 2016 at 12:13:40 PM UTC-5, TomR wrote:
I repaired that vanity sink some years ago.
I replaced the faucet assembly. But, it didn't come loose from the sink li
ke the DIY articles say. It was anchored in securely with some kind of plu
mbing putty that had turned harder and stronger than JBWeld. I ended up di
sconnecting the sink, taking it outside, and beating on it with a rubber ha
mmer for half an hour, eventually it loosened up and I put on the new fauce
t. Then I reassembled it in the vanity, and it didn't want to hang on thos
e little clips, it took me half a day just to get the sink back into the ho
le before I could reconnect the water and the drain. So you can see I am n
ot anxious to touch this vanity if there's any way to avoid it.
I'm coming late, but I've read most of the thread.
Have you tried grinding the seat for the shutoff valve before using a
new washer? Back in the day, I had some success with this, but sometimes
it wasn't enough and a valve had to be replaced.
Even so, the tile work will be another task to do and you'll probably
have to deal with a mud bed rather than a cement board.
On Fri, 02 Dec 2016 20:01:12 -0700, Charles Bishop
Something I did not think of, but you have a good point. Also a lot of
them older faucets had removable seats. You need a special inexpensive
tool to remove them. They need to be unscrewed. Take them to a plumbing
or hardware store to buy replacements.
Also, even if the OP cant identify the faucet brand, a decent plumbing
store or shop should be able to provide the parts. Unless the OP really
wants a new faucet, I'd spend time at plumbing shops and get new parts
to fix the old faucet. A lot less work, and expense. After all, the body
of a faucet is nothing more than a casting made of brass (plastic these
days). If the seats can be removed/replaced, then it's just a matter of
new washers, or maybe even new stems, but as long as parts can be
gotten, (most can), just replace the parts and save a huge job and
expense. With new seats, washers, packing and stems, that faucet will
likely last another 40 years. And if the handles look bad, they can be
Me too -- at least about the part about how that would work.
I wonder if they only work for use as EITHER just a shower OR just a tub. I
am not sure how it would be able to switch back and forth from tub use to
shower use etc.
At first, I thought that maybe the tub faucet could have one of those
switches on in to turn the faucet either on or off -- and maybe with the tub
faucet off the water would divert up to the shower head. That seems a
little iffy to me, but maybe that's how it works?
Here's a link to an exploded view of a two handle "Tub and Shower Valve",
but it looks like, depending on where the plug is inserted, it can only be
either a tub valve or a shower valve -- but not both:
Thanks, I guess that's it. I guess with an open tub faucet there would be
enough back pressure for the water to also back up to the height of the
shower head and leak out there at the same time.
And, I did just find this image that shows it set up for tub and shower use
with the diverter valve on the spout for the tub:
The combination in my parents' house had three handles. The one in the
middle diverted water from tub to shower. I have seen others with 2
handles and a knob sticking out of the spout, marked "pull for shower"
(IIRC it would go back to tub so you had to pull for EVERY shower).
24 days until the winter celebration (Sunday December 25, 2016 12:00:00
AM for 1 day).
To TimR from TomR (no relation),
I am getting ready to do almost the same thing fairly soon. You said that
you have a "two handle" shower faucet, but mine is a "3 handle" shower
faucet -- hot, cold, and a diverter handle in the middle.
I tried to find some YouTube videos, but I couldn't find any that show this
type of replacement. They all seem to show how to replace and old 2 or 3
handle shower faucet with a single handle shower faucet. I'll post the
links to two YouTube videos below just to give you some ideas, but they are
not exact videos for what you and I are talking about doing.
In the end, after watching some of the YouTube videos, I may end up
converting my 3 handle shower faucet to a single handle shower faucet.
Meanwhile, back at the ranch, you will need to open up the back wall and see
what you have now -- probably copper not iron pipe. And, after you open the
wall, you may want to look at Home Depot or Lowes or wherever for "access
panels". They are inexpensive and you can use them to add an easy access
panel where you made the hole in the wall rather sealing up the hole
My 3 handle shower faucet has 1/2-inch copper pipe and fittings. I will
need to cut each of the copper pipes (4 cuts -- hot, cold, line up to the
shower head, and line down to the tub faucet). Then, I will be able to just
pull out the old 3 handle shower faucet fixture.
When I go to solder the new fixture in place, I will probably need some
1/2-inch "slip" couplings (also known as couplings with "no stop"). It
means a copper coupling that slides over the pipe but does not have a "stop"
in the middle on the inside. That way, when there is no room to move the
copper pipes on each side of the fitting (coupling), you can just slide the
coupling all the way on to one pipe, put the pipes together, then slide the
coupling back so that half of it covers one pipe and the other half covers
the other pipe -- then solder.
Here are the YouTube videos that I mentioned above:
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