I have a 5 year old Tamko (25 year warrenty) roof where the shingles
seem to have raised up little bit in some places. Also I have noticed
that many places the shingles seem to be easy to pull up and especially
along flashings while other areas the shingles are solid really solid
and stuck down. I now have a water leak and can't find it, but worse
yet I'm afraid there is a problem with my whole roof. Does this sound
like the shingles are failing. I have also noticed a light cellophane
kind of wrapping coming off the bottom of some of the shingle.
As you can tell I'm no roofer but can any one give me some helpfull
information as to whats happening.
on shingles that arent stuck down , i put roofing tar or silicone
under them . some times a leak is caused by rain blowing under a
shingle, or arond a flashing that needs retarred,. also take your time
and look for nail holes or nails comming up thru the shingles. you can
tar or silicone the holes . on nails comming up thru i pull the nail,
put in a long stainless deck screw and tar or silicone over the hole.
forgot to say, that celofane is over the tar of the shingle to keep
em from sticking together prior to appliction. many a roofer said the
heat from the sun will cause the tar to go thru it and stick after
application..a couple roofers say they take off the celafane prior to
application so it is sure it will stick ..if you got some that arent
sticking and have the celafane on them ,peel it off and retar shingle
As a wild-ass guess, I think that your shingles came with a little
strip of adhesive on the underside that was covered with a
plastic strip labeled "do not remove", to keep them from gluing
themselves together during shipment, and the people who put your
roof on left the plastic in place, which prevents the tabs from
sticking themselves down.
Probably you can solve the shingle-uplift problem by putting
a one SMALL dot of roofing adhesive in the middle of the
bottom edge of each tab.
The plastic release strip runs longituidinally along the middle of the
shingle on the underside. Its function is to keep the shingles from
sticking together in the package. The adhesive dots are in the same
position on the top of the shingle. When the shingle is installed
there are five inches between the two. It couldn't possibly affect the
sealing of the tabs.
The unsealed shingles being along flashings should tell you that the
flashing is either between the tabs on succesive shingle course, such
as step flashing, or under the shingles, such as valley flashing, which
is causing the shingles to bridge and not make full contact.
A dab of roof cement is all that is needed to hold the tab in place.
Do not go crazy with the roofing cement as that will most likely cause
more problems than it solves. Caulking or sealing without locating the
leak will mask the leaks location, possibly only seal it temporarily,
and makes further investigation and repairs much more difficult.
Tracing a leak can be difficult. Start by working your way up the roof
slowly with a hose. Do not spray water up and under the shingles until
you have eliminated the normal direction of water flow as the reason
for the leak. If the leak only happens in windy conditions, or
torrential rains, determine which direction the wind blows at those
times when the roof leak is most noticeable. The leak won't work its
way up the roof slope, but it can run laterally as well as down. It
depends on the roof construction, vapor barriers, etc.
Where is the leak showing up? Pictures?
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