In the grand scheme of things this is a pretty minor problem.
The double doors on my shed have deteriorated past fixing.
I need to open both at once to get my riding mower in and out.
I had thought to replace the existing doors with a piece of plywood or
OSB. Problem is, the opening is 49 inches, so I can't get two doors
out of one piece of board.
Would it be a dumb idea to add a board to one or both of the jambs?
Or is there a more obvious solution to this?
My first thought would be to cut the plywood into two 24" doors and
attach the hinges. On one of the doors, nail a 1x4 along the far edge
with half of the width hanging over the edge of the door. When you
close the doors, the door with the 1x4 is closed last, covering the
I built a 48" wide door for my shed, using a frame made of 2x2 rails (top
and bottom), screwed to 2x4 stiles (each side). The 2x4's give a little
more "bite" for the hinge and latch screws. This is covered with a thin
sheet of 3/8" plywood, and trimmed out with 1x4 trim boards on the outside
for appearance. I used heavy duty gate hinges and a sliding gate latch
with a lock. I like to use Simpson Strong Drive screws (usually located
with joist hangers and whatnot in the home centers) for mounting the hinges
into the studs.
If your opening is 49 inches wide, I would add a 1x board (3/4" thick) on
one side as a filler. This would leave a 1/4" gap with a full sheet of
plywood. This is a bit more than you need for the door to swing open, but
you could probably center the door in the opening so there's only 1/8" on
Add trim on the outside of the shed to cover the filler strip, mount the
door, and add stops on the inside so it doesn't swing all the way in.
Of course you can get a 49" door out of one sheet! Consider that the sheet
needs a frame and let the frame create the needed half inch or whatever you
need on each side. It's really rather simple to do.
If you are having 2 doors, frame and sheet the entire opening to fit
and cut into the 2 sections apart after you are done. Any other way
you waste much time trying to get things to fit and close right.
This is my shed. The doors are made of plywood, framed by 1 x 4's for
stiffness as well as looks.
They are hinged with piano hinges between the vertical 1 x 4's and the
outside 1 x 4's are screw through the shed wall into the studs.
You could easily cover your 49" opening with a 48" sheet using this
design. With a gap between the 2 doors and the space required for the
hinge's, you're almost at 49" anyway. Any other adjustments can be
made just by the correct placement of the 1 x 4's.
And what a deal...
I had just bought (and loaded into my trailer) about $250 worth of
material to build what was going to be not much more than a 4 x 6 lean-
to shed. I walked back into HD to get one more thing and saw a hand
written sign that said "Open Box Shed Kits - See Manager."
The manager took me to an open pallet full of the material for that
shed, normally $550, and said I could have it for $250. We unloaded
the other stuff from my trailer and reloaded it with the shed kit.
As I was reviewing the instructions, I noticed things like no sill
plates for the stud walls, and other cost cutting measures - these
parts weren't missing, they just weren't even used in the original
kit. The next time you're in the HD parking lot, take a look at their
sheds and you'll see where they cut corners to keep the prices down.
Since I only paid $250 for the kit, I bought a few extra studs so I
could build proper walls.
I also bought 4 "open packages" of shingles at Lowes for $10 each,
which was *just* enough to roof it.
The $550 kit doesn't include the flooring or roofing materials, but
all in I paid less than $350 and ended up with a much better structure
than the kit normally provides.
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