I read a question about loosening rusted toilet seats, and 3 people
recommended WD-40. Finally the last person wrote "I use WD-40 all the
time, but for loosening bolts, I think you should use Liquid Wrench or
penetrating oil. They are made for this purpose, not general purpose.
And control your urge to try WD-40 first, because it will fill what
cracks it can reach and IMVSO make it harder for the Liquid Wrench to
get past there to where the serious corrosion is. Finally, let sit
for 30 minutes, tapping occasionally on the bolts (though maybe tap
less hard than with a car, because the toilet can break.) "
Is there a difference between wd-40 and the other two?
Is there a difference between Liquid Wrench and penetrating oil?
Is the last poster correct?
On Saturday, May 21, 2016 at 9:48:48 PM UTC-4, Micky wrote:
Yes and No. "Liquid Wrench" is a product line, not a specific product.
BTW, also consider the B'Laster line of similar products. Their penetrating
oil is commonly known as PB Blaster. Ask for it by that name and most
retailers will know what you are asking for.
I don't know. I've tried WD-40 first and then a penetrating oil. The
penetrating oil still worked, but I have no idea if the WD-40 inhibited
it in any way. You might need a controlled environment to determine
if the WD-40 inhibited the penetrating oil, i.e. same amount of "stuck",
same amount of penetrating oil, same about of loosening torque, etc.
I think getting the exact same amount of "stuck" would be the hardest part.
This a related question:
I have an oak toilet seat with brass hardware. The brass has turned
green. I bought a new seat, plastic, matches the bathroom color, and
I plan to take the old seat off and wash it with the garden hose. Is
the jet spray enough or will I have to use a brush, and more
importantly can I give this away to someone or has it reached a
certain age where it will turn green much more quickly? Anyone have
experience, or guesses?? I never scratched or scoured my brass, just
a sponge or rag.
Curious, I found that oak seats sell for up to $75, maybe more. So I
looked and one said, in abridged form "-PVD brass hinges -Stainless
steel hinge screws eliminate rust.-Clean with warm soapy water.-PVD
plated hinges for corrosion resistance.-
From the Manufacturer: It is corrosion proof. "
What is PVD and does this mean the brass really won't turn green?
I just checked and the threads on my seat are rusted. Plastic nuts so
I guess I can still get them off.
Without writing anything down, it seemed of the 7 or so brass hardware
seats on Paypal, the more expensive ones had the PVD. Maybe one of
them would have done better than mine. I may have the box in the
basement. If so I'll check if it claims PVD, but I'll bet not.
BTW, do you all know what BVD stands for? The underwear.
Well, I'm not going to to go that much trouble, frankly not either of
those processes, for a seat I'm giving away, and I guess I should be
tasteful enough not to give it or even offer it when I've just spray
washed it. Right? I think no one would want it anyhow, on the
freecycle list that I'm supposed to use based on where I live. There's
a wide range of incomes that area, ... oh yeah, there are some who
are very poor, but based on what's offerred at least, they are not
offering. They may be taking, but I still think it would be tasteless
and potentially humiliating for someone to accept my offer if it's
still green and I describe it accurately. ?? Why would anyone want
it if it's going to turn green again.
The cheapest plastic would be better. The cheapest plastic on
Amazon is $16, and it even has the easy-clean feature I described i
another post. I could have bought that but I need one for heavy
people and in a particular color.
On Monday, May 23, 2016 at 10:51:19 AM UTC-4, Thomas wrote:
He's saving it for Xmas. If I had such a thing, if it looked like it
would still be usable to someone, I wouldn't be cleaning it up. I'd just
put it at the curb a day or two before trash pickup. If someone takes
it, fine. If not, it goes.
On Mon, 23 May 2016 09:05:44 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
So you think it's too personal or something to be given away even in
good, clean condition?
That would work, and I'd do it if I lived on a more public street, but
the only ones who would drive by my house are the 20 or so families
and their occasional visitors or deliverymen who live beyond me but
not closer to the other entrance. And because I live in the
outside corner house and put my trash where 2 other families do.
they'd see it and I'd look bad for not cleaning it, even the green
part. And especially the one guy who is mad at me for some reason he
On second thought, I don't think anyone around here would take a seat
that needs cleaning, which is why I thought of cleaning it in the
first place. It took 2 years or maybe 10 to turn green for me, and
other than that, it's still in good condition. I'll try (non-power)
water jetting it and maybe I'll get lucky.
Thanks for all the helpful answers.
On my last truck, I could not turn the headlight
adjuster screw. Steel screw, goes into plastic
headlight assembly. I tried a variety of different
lubes, including WD, PB, and a couple others.
Finally, I noticed an old can of Castle Thrust,
from Nu-Way Auto Parts. It did the trick for me.
Soaked into the threads. I was able to turn the
screw a little with Vise Grips, and after some
back and forth, the adjuster was loose enough
for me to adjust the headlight beam.
On Sunday, May 22, 2016 at 8:14:56 AM UTC-4, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Did the Thrust "do the trick" on its own or did all three substances do
a little? In other words, had the order of application been reversed,
would the screw still have loosened up?
Something to ponder and something that will forever remain a mystery.
"A difference which makes no difference, is
no difference." Spock.
Of course, we'll never know. When I did more
heating and AC, my boss used to tell me that
the last person who touched the unit owns it.
Any future problems will be blamed on the
last tech. And so, I give Castle Thrust the
credit for the headlight aimer threads.
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