I'm just going to pass on an idea or two, since I not only have a Monkey
Wards 800 Energy Saver 800 Special Edition glass-lined 40-gallon tank
that no only has had the moth-eaten dip tube replaced, but services a
house with 5 adult/young adult women who always seem to get in the
shower and suck up the hot water before me ... and I always seem to have
a fair amount of hot water:
1) If I were you, I'd start looking at what might possibly have happened
between the time you wrapped the tank and had unlimited hot water and
now, when you'd have more hot water if you boiled it in a big witches'
cauldron on your stove.
I'm not sure what kind of Luke Skywalker double-thermostat setup you
have in your house since I and everyone I know have only one place to
set the water temperature -- and that's on the big red temp-setting dial
attached to the tank itself. Perhaps someone was futzing around with
something next to it and knocked the setting to a lower temperature. If
it can happen in my house a week or three ago by someone digging out
boxes of Xmas ornaments stored several feet away, it can happen in
anyone's house, I guess.
If that's not it, then ...
2) If totally everything has failed your inspection(s) and the
inspection(s) of an actual HVAC guy, maybe it's just time to bite the
bullet and quit wasting your time on a lost cause and just buy a new
damn water heater. Nobody like spending a few hundred bucks on a new
water heater, but it beats the shit out of taking lukewarm showers and
banging your head against a wall trying to figure out what's wrong with
the tank or its associated mechanicals. But again, that's just me. Do
whatever makes you happy.
email@example.com (Ryan) wrote:
You're describing a GAS water heater. The OP has electric, which typically have
2 heating elements and each is controlled by a seperate thermostat. Usually,
these are hidden behind 2 access panels, one near the bottom, and the other 1/2
The upper element in an electric water heater takes precedence over the lower
element. Meaning, when the upper element calls for heat, the bottom 1/2 the
tank is already cold due to it being used.
As the upper element calls for heat, the lower one is turned off so the upper
can heat the top portion of the tank only. The lower element will get power to
heat only after the upper element is satisfied.
If you're quickly running out of hot water, chances are the lower element is
shot and the bottom 1/2 of the tank is always cold.
You've checked that the bottom element is getting power, but is it heating up?
firstname.lastname@example.org (HA HA Budys Here) wrote:
Yikes. Thanks for pointing out the error of my ways. My bad that I keep
forgetting ther are other people in the world who are on primitive ways
of making fire. I promise I'll do better next time.
Two different heating elements controlled by 2 separate thermostats
hidden behind 2 different access panels. And to think that all this
time, I thought the world was happy with dealing with just a sigle
all-in-one fire/temp regulation package that NG water heaters are.
Again, my bad.
If I recall right, all this heating-hierarchy I think happens within the
tank even with NG water heaters, too. But all in all, methinks it's
easier for your clueless homeowner like myself to maybe pin down our
basic problem more directly and more easily with our NG units.
Which means, like I said, it's probably just time to dump the durn thing
and buy a new one. Manufacturers only warranty 'em new for 5 years for a
reason, methinks ;)
There ARE smaller electric heaters with only 1 element at the bottom, and those
"shorty" units often found in the ceilings of strip shopping centers, often run
on 120v as well... but generally, a house with an electric water heater will be
the standard tall unit with 2 elements, 2 thermostats, and 2 removable access
panels. Actually 3 if you count the cover on top where the cable enters!
Well, yes because heat rises. If only the bottom element worked, it would
eventually heat the entire tank, but you'd never get really "hot" hot water
until the entire tank fully recovered. That's why there's an upper element to
take on the task of heating the top portion ONLY when so much hot water has
been drawn off so quickly that you risk actually having no heated water to any
degree at all. An ice cold tank would take a few hours to fully recover, but
it can heat the top portion nicely (usually the top 1/3) and reasonably fast if
it can concentrate on the top portion only.
Then again, if one has an electrical service capable of supplying BOTH upper
and lower elements simultaniously, then the WH could be connected that way,
vastly cutting down on the number of times you "almost run out."
I've seen them at Sears and the Borg for 12 years, however, that's on the tank
integrity ONLY and not any of the electro-mechanical parts. And these permier
models probably aren't sold where people have really bad water...
I'm surrounded by developments that are turning 30-35 years old and people are
just now seeing their gas WH's crap out. BUt we have really good, pure water
here that's PH neutral.
Well you are wrong. Electric water heaters are much easier
to fix and nearly maintenance free and the maintain the
water temperature more evenly. There is no gas burner to
futz with, just straight old electricity which either works
or doesn't. And gas thermostats, in my experience, have a
wide range between off and on. The electric thermostats
may, but are not likely to need changing. The elements
will, but they are relatively easy to change and cheap.
Manufactures have 5 year warranties so they can sell cheaper
and raise the price considerably if they have a 7-10 year
warranty. And electric water heaters, even the cheapest,
commonly last 15-20 years. If you lived in an electric
area, you would know that lots of electric water heaters
last much longer.
Yes, he did. I was summarizing each possible failure senerio. May be the upper
stat is not properly connected to the lower, or the upper stat isn't operating
correctly, switching to bypass once satisfied so the lower portion can do it's
job, or the lower stat isn't properly connected to the upper, or to it's
Or maybe both are just set too darn low. 130 seems lukewarm to me... Isn't 150
considered minimum, 180 if you have a dishwasher?
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