That is a usage that should be banned.
And
That seems like a gross overreaction.
The scientists actually studying colony collapse for years now don't agree. For example, it's occurring in areas with no pesticide usage. And CCD has occurred since at least the 1800s, periods where bees died off for no known reason.
Just remember , food chains start
It may not be from spraying before harvest, but somehow traces of glyphosate are showing up in a lot of foods. And Monsanto has a huge business selling genetically modified seeds so that the crops can be sprayed with RU to kill weeds, but not the crop. So while they may not be spraying it before harvest, they are spraying it on a lot of crops during the season. Looks to me like it's similar to any other chemical, pesticide used on crops. Some traces will wind up in the food. The only question is how much and what's a safe level. RU doesn't appear to be particularly dangerous, the traces left probably aren't a problem. That's the opinion of the FDA, etc anyway.
Looked at cite and it is highly biased. Today we have not only fake news but fake science.
We have termites in the area and every year I would spray diazinone around the perimeter of the house for them and ants. But now it is banned for homeowners so I few years ago I had professional treatment supposedly good for 20 year. EPA has been a real PITA with us home owners who like to do these things ourselves.
There are termite treatments available to homeowners but their lifetime is short as a year for stuff you just put down and only a couple of years for stuff you bury. Chlordane once buried is good forever.
Update of an old thread.
I decided to go ahead with the block on the first wall. (This part of the shed is an addition and has three rotted walls, each about 12 feet in length. The other half of the shed has had little damage.)
I'm making progress on the first wall, taking my time and learning as I go. This was the worst wall, with the studs rotted farther up, so I had to cut them higher anyway. I'm taking the advice to anchor the block and use J bolts on the sill, by the way, and put a moisture barrier between block and wood.
And what I learned is this was a BAD idea. It's going to work. But the skill involved in laying block straight and level is not to be underestimated. The other two walls will just get pressure treated sill secured to the floor.
The sill plate that rotted was a 2x4 and I'm not sure it was pressure treated. It was wrapped in thin sheet metal and they might have figured that was enough.
from what he wrote, he did
Yes and I have to thank people who mentioned that earlier in the thread. I didn't know that before I started this.
I also have to thank those who mentioned anchoring the block to the slab. I would have thought of anchoring the new sill plate to the block, probably, but might not have realized block should have lateral resistance too.
Yesterday I found one more reason doing the block wall was a bad idea.
Concrete is porous to water, but not very fast.
We had hurricane Isaias run over our area, and low lying water poured into the shed. In severe rains I've got a bit before, it doesn't drain well from one side of the shed, it's on my list of projects. Anyway, it ran over to my new block wall, which is apparently slightly downhill, and got trapped. In the past it's quickly drained out through the gaps, but now I have concrete block mortared to the slab, and it trapped the water like a swimming pool. I had to drag out the wetvac.
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