I wanted to post an interesting update.
What happened to me, really frustrates me, but I guess buyer beware.
As I have learned from this group. Here is my heating system:
I have a hydro-air system with 1 boiler located in basement, supplying radiators
in both the
upstairs and downstairs blower units. Each blower unit also contains a cooling
coil for the AC. 1
duct in basement goes to attic duct work in attic for upstairs and other duct
work in basement goes
I have a service contract with my heating oil contractor. I noticed a water
leak. He stated that I
had 2 leaks. One leak was from a draining valve located on the bottom of the
boiler. All he had to
do was to hand tighten the valve and that would stop this leak. This leak split
into 2 areas. One
area was leaking onto the left side of my boiler and the other leak dripped on
the right side of my
burner to the duct work that fed the downstairs unit.
Immediately, on that visit, the first thing the repairman (that I had a service
immediately said that the coil in the downstairs ductwork had a leak and would
have to be replaced.
The company faxed me a price of $970 to replace.
I of course mentioned that since the valve he tightened showed a direct path to
the duct work that
was leaking and that he now stopped the drop leak, that maybe the duct work was
not a problem. He
emphatically stated that the duct work coil would have to be replaced.
I having heard of the $970 price for fixing this, had stated that since the
valve that was leaking
showed a direct path to the duct work, that maybe there is no coil problem in
the duct work. He
disagreed. In addition, when I asked for the faxed estimate from the oil company
they seemed peeved that I actually wanted a written price.
After I sopped up the water at the duct work in quesiton, there was a water
puddle the next day.
Seemingly suggesting I still had a problem.
Well, here is the mind blower. Since I was interested in understanding and
possibly fixing the
problem myself. I cut away the duct insulation to get a better look at my duct,
I had to cut away
the bottom 6 inches on the bottom of the duct insultation because it was sopping
wet. I also opened
up the duct insulation to expose the metal duct to air.
Unbelievable, that once I cut the 6 inches of duct insulation that was sopping
wet, I noticed that
there was no insulation wet above the 6 inches.
Now, after a couple of days, there has been no leak whatsovever, So problem was
solved by just
having the service rep, tighting a drain valve that was located on the bottom of
the burner and then
removing the wet duct insulation that was attached to the bottom of the duct.
Everything now works fine, including the fact, that I did not spend $970. In
addition, my local
plumbing supply has told me that the coil that I would need replaced would cost
$175 plus any labor
from a contractor.
What a ripoff that I almost succumbed to.
Now, it took a number of posts on this forum to acquire a basic knowledge of my
I am grateful to all of you guys. You saved me a lot of money.
Thank you for your help.
Lawrence M. Seldin, CMC, CPC
Contributing writer for FUTURES Magazine
Author of RECRUITSOURCE PEOPLESOFT EXAM and RECRUITSOURCE SAP/R3 EXAM
Author of POWER TIPS FOR THE APPLE NEWTON and INTRODUCTION TO CSP
NOTE: To send me an email, remove TAKEOUT from my email address:
NOTE: My web home page: www.seldin.net