I believe the NEC only allows for a single circuit out to the
outbuilding, if you want more, you need to put in a sub panel in that
60 amp (#6 wire) circuits can be run in 3/4" conduit, which reduces the
cost, most bang for the buck so to speak.
To provide a 220 service out to the garage, you'll need 3 wires, two
hobs plus neutral (and ground).
The garage is just below the bedrooms, it is not outbuilding.
How about 100 amps subpanel what size wire and conduits?
The sale associate in HD told me 12/2 will be just alright for 220/20 amps
wires. Now, I could return them for the size I need.
How much do you think I will have to spend to get an electrician to do the work
I posted earlier and plus the work to rewire the bedroom away from the garage
PS: The questions may be stupid, I'm learning and change as I get more responds.
Or an Edison style circuit, which uses the common neutral, and allows
full current on each side of the outlet.
I did this in a old house I rewired, where the owner went with central
ac after I worked to pull 220/30amp to the upstairs bedroom for a window
unit. Installed 20 amp outlets in an edison circuit, and told the owner
it is heavy duty, this is where you'd plug in a steam cleaner or
something like that.
After listening to all of this, I would install two new 12-2 cables from your
main panel to the
garage. One would be 120V, 20A with a GFCI receptacle as the first one. Put as
many receptacles on
this as is convenient for all your 120V tools. The other 12-2 would be for
another 240V 20A circuit.
These can also have multiple receptacles so you can place them where you want
them and keep daisy
chaining the 12-2 until you're done. You can add more receptacles to your
existing 240V 20A circuit
if that would make things more convenient. You just have to limit things on each
circuit so you're
not tripping the breaker (one big and one small item would be ideal).
If you put in a subpanel, you still have to buy everything above, but you'll use
somewhat less 12-2
and a fair amount of 6-3 (for a 60A panel). A subpanel will also require the
cost of the panel and
the 60A double pole that protects the feeder. If you really think you're not
going to have enough
power, you can install a 3'rd cable along with the other two 12-2's. The three
cables should fit
in13/16 holes in your studs/joists (6-3 NM would fill the 13/16 hole itself),
and you're still
within the temperature derating limits with even a 4th cable.
Now, I'm narrowing down to either two new 12-2 cables or one 60A subpanel as you
describe below. I will have to limit a 220/20A to one big and one small 220volts
machine at any one time (still doubtful), while the other 220/20A to just one
machine and the 3rd ones for 120V/20A and lighting.
===========>the 60A double pole that protects the feeder. If you really think you're not going to have enough
I'm a bit confuse here, I have a finished garage. The studs are encased with dry
wall. I am planning to run two new 12-2's (one 120V/20A and the other 220/20A)
from the main panel, taking the same path studs/joists. .. What do you mean by
"within the temperature derating limits with even a 4th cable.?"
Thanks for you help
Can you list the equipment you have and the motor nameplate amps at 240V for
each? If so, we should
be able to tell you what can run together on the same circuit. I would expect
the dust collector to
draw its nameplate amps. Saws, jointers, planers, etc only draw their rated
current when cutting
wood. If the motor amps used simultaneously on the same circuit add up to 20,
things should work.
Keeping that sum at 16 to 18 would be better though.
When you run multiple wires together, you have to derate the amount of current
they carry because
heat from one wire heats the other wires too. This is true whether you're
stuffing a bunch of wire
in a conduit, or running bundles of cable. With cable labeled "NM-B" (which is
what Romex made after
1985 will indicate), you can run up to 9 current carrying wires in a bundle
before #12 can't carry
20 amps anymore. Should you need more than 4 cables to the same location, you
just run two separate
bundles (say 3 cables and 2 cables) spaced a few inches apart so heat from one
doesn't add to the
other. This works anyway, because you don't want a hole larger then 1" in your
2x4 studs so that you
can keep the wires 1.25" from the face of each stud. You won't get more than 4
cables in a 1" hole.
Vital question. Is the garage attached or detached. If the garage is a
separate structure then the sub panel would be the only way to proceed
that would comply with the US National Electric Code (NEC). Each
building must be supplied by a single branch circuit or feeder. The
exceptions to that rule rarely apply to residential properties.
The cheapest and easiest solution is to add a couple of additional 220V
outlets to the 220V/20A circuit *that you already have*, and rewire your
table saw motor for 220V. You just need a roll of 12/2wg wire and a few
switch boxes (or handy boxes and wire clamps) and 220V grounding
outlets: - - or - |-
The dust collector and jointer probably do not draw anywhere near their
rated amperage. The table saw probably does, but only when it is starting
up or when you are cutting something thick.
If you have your heart set on a new subpanel, you can buy a 100A main lug
panel with 6 spaces for about $15. You will have to install a ground bar
kit (just a couple of dollars) and remove the green bonding screw to
isolate the neutral from the metal box. Run 6/3wg cable from a 60A 2-pole
breaker in your service panel to the lugs in the subpanel. Or if you are
cheap, and you never plan to put a welder in your garage, use 10/3wg cable
and a 30A 2-pole breaker.
OK, so far I'm with you. I already have the 12/2wg. What do you mean by 220V
My jointer is a 2 hp and planer is 3hp. However, I used them once a while when I
need to plane a batch of rough saw lumber for a project. The table saw really
draw every ounce of juice from the present circuit.
I do have a 180a, AC welder, it's set up to run on 220/20a. I'm confuse on the
Thanks, getting nearer there.
I drew a picture (sort of.) Two hot wires and a ground. Tap into the
existing circuit and add a couple of new outlets. Turn it into a 20A
But you don't run a dust collector with it, or any of the other power
tools, so you'd still be OK with the existing 20A circuit. Some popular
230A welders require a 50A circuit.
6/3wg cable if you want to put in a subpanel fed through a 50A or 60A
breaker. If you can get by with a 30A subpanel, you can use 10/3wg cable.
The "wg" part means "with ground", because you need 4 conductors. I'm
not sure, but I think you can still buy large 3 conductor cables without a
ground, so I said wg just to be safe.
Rewired and tested my 1HP Crapsman table saw today from 110/14amps to 220/7amps.
It's more powerful running in 220volts and it started without hesitation. I also
turn on my compressor with the TS running and it did not trip the circuit. I
guess it's safe for me to run both at the same time.
I guess I will be starting to pull the two 12/2's from the main panel to the
garage sometime soon and complete everything before Spring.
Thanks everyone for the help. I wish everyone here a Happy and safe New Year!
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.