Have the fairly typical Sears Kenmore electric dryer whic is close to ten
years old by now. Model is 110.68089 11
One of the drum support rollers has gone bad, and thought I would replace
it myself, as the roller part is relatively cheap.
Question: Even though there's probably enough room for me to reach the
is at the rear of the unit thru the kick-plate door from the front, I was
wondering what happens when I remove the roller ?
e.g., Will the drum fall down ?
Should I block up the drum with some wood prior to removing this
How is this kind of repair normally handled; any caveats or "gotchas" to be
aware of ?
What should take an hour might take three. This is the age-old curse of home
repairs. But, you shouldn't have any major problems with this job. Yes, you
should have some chunks of wood handy for supporting the drum. I needed to
do that with a much older GE dryer.
Do you have access to a large library system? If so, you might want to check
& see if they carry repair manuals. That's where I found one for my dryer,
and later, for the washer. Appliance parts places sometimes carry them, too.
Like the comany that seems to have a monopoly on automobile manuals, there's
a firm that also owns much of the appliance book biz.
More power to you if you can do it in any way less than what a servicer
would do. And this is it...
Unglug the unit. Remove lint screen and 2 screws there. Reach your
hand around the control panel and give forward pressure while lifting
the front edge of the top, releasing it from the front. Rotate the top
up on its hinges. Remove kick plate. Remove door springs, remembering
placement. Loosen 5/16" screws at lower left and right of front panel.
Remove screws at top left and right of inside of front panel. Remove
wires from door switch. Look inside to see how drum is oriented on the
felt glide of the front panel. Remove front panel by lifting it off
the loosened bottom screws and away from drum. Some older front panels
have a long screw at the hinges that has to be removed. If the front
panel doesn't come away easily, open the door, look at the hinges, and
remove one of the 3 screws at each hinge. I think it is the middle
one, but not sure. Removing the wrong one won't damage anything; just
replace and move on. Once the the front panel is out of the way, you
will have easy access to drum. Note how belt wraps around drum,
through idler pulley, and around motor pulley. Draw a picture if you
need to. Hold idler pulley to remove spring tension, then remove belt
from motor pulley. Stand up and use belt as a holder and lift the
whole drum out of the cabinet. Replace one or both rollers as needed.
All the parts will come with each new roller. Clean the shaft with a
solvent or rust buster if gummy. Put a touch of turbine oil on then
load the roller.
To replace the drum, move the right roller foward on its shaft. Lift
drum into place and turn drum by hand so that the rear seal flares
outward, allowing top of drum about an inch of clearance from rear
bulkhead so that there is room for the rear seal to move back into
place. It will probably do this naturally. Load belt through idler
and onto motor pulley. Put front panel on using above instructions in
reverse, reaching inside to pull up on the drum and onto felt glide on
the front panel. You can also open the door and pull drum onto the
felt glide if necessary.
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