I need to remove the shower drain to repair a cracked shower pan. The
pan is plastic, an oddball size, and in a location where it can't be
replaced without major demolition.
I tried to unscrew the drain fitting with a pop-up plug wrench, but
only managed to strip the inside of the drain clean out.
Now the wrench has nothing to grip. It just slips inside the drain
Does anyone have any tricks to getting the drain apart? I've got
plenty of brute force solutions, but I'm hoping someone has something
a bit more elegant.
On Thu, 14 Oct 2010 10:40:30 -0700 (PDT), firstname.lastname@example.org
I'm not familiar with what a " pop-up plug wrench" is.
If the drain has cross members inside -- looks like cross-hairs for a
gun scope ( + ) you can get it out.
Use a pair of channel lock pliers. Place the handles down inside to
pipe and then turn CCW. If real tight you can insert a tool,
screwdriver in the jaws of the pliers and back the drain piece out.
It's the specialized tool for removing drains, instead of using
channel lock plier handles. It has a socket on one end that fits the
"crosshairs" and a tuning fork on the other.
The crosshairs broke out when I tried to turn the drain with the plug
wrench. That's my problem.
The drain hole is now smooth inside, and there's nothing to grip with
my plug wrench, or channel lock handles, or anything...
Right now my only option is to go at it with a dremel and a carbide
bit. Grind until the top flange comes off, and replace the drain
On Oct 15, 9:23 am, email@example.com wrote:
If I'm picturing this correctly, the existing part on top should have
screwed out from the part that's under the pan.
If that's the case, perhaps you can cut a single slit from the outer
edge of the top flange in and down along the threads, essentially
turning the O shaped part into a closed C, if you get my drift.
Then you could bend the part out of shape to pull it away from the
If you are very careful with the Dremel and a cut-off wheel, you might
be able to cut just deep enough to be able to "rip" the fitting along
the cut line. In other words, cutting all the way through could damage
the pan or the threads on the bottom part of the drain, so be gentle.
Is it held in with what looks like a screw?
If so, you can try a "reversable impact driver set"
You put the bit in place and whack the sucker with a hammer. The tool is
driven down and the bit turns a teeny amount, hopefully taking the screw
with it (don't count on that happening, though, or it'll break your heart).
On Oct 14, 1:40 pm, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
It's not elegant, but I had a similar issue a few years ago.
I used my angle grinder with a disc that should have thrown
away before because it had gotten so small.
Was able to graze the inside surface a little at a time and
work down to where I was just barely grazing the threads.
I did it up-and-down so I didn't come back to the same spot
till I was sure I wasn't too deep.
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