removing header support posts

[a2rjh]

Wanted to remove a couple of posts from this header. Not absolutely sure if the existing header will work not.

This opening is a 10 1/2 ft opening between living and breakfast area. Should I cut the purlin braces above the header and add a strongback to support it?

pics @

• Opened up one of the ugly plywood wrap. Picture "layer" shows what is underneath. From top to bottom, (1) & (2) top plates, (3) & (4) double 2X6 on stacked on its sides, (5) sheetrock and (6) trim finish covering sheetrock on top of posts.

• Picture "wide" shows the overall view

• picture "left" shows jack stud in relation to marked header

• picture "attic" shows header from above the top plate with purlin brace on left.

[dpb]

Could I suppose but seem likely to be difficult to get enough of a beam up there to do anything useful...

is underneath. From top to bottom, (1)& (2) top plates, (3)& (4) double

2X6 on stacked on its sides, (5) sheetrock and (6) trim finish covering sheetrock on top of posts.

The double tuba-six isn't doing much other than filling the space than a single one as there's no connection between them.

What open span are you planning on in the end is the key to designing and sizing any modification. I'd figure on replacing the 1/2" ply w/ bolted steel plate of need width 8" or so would likely be close. Adding a welded flange to the bottom for some additional flexure restraint will stiffen it up quite a bit at some fabrication cost if you don't have the facility to do it yourself.

As always in a major reno like this, the caveat is "consult a professional".

[dpb]

On 8/10/2013 9:30 AM, dpb wrote: ...

Edited slightly...dpb

[a2rjh]

dpb, thanks. what's your thought on LVLs? Don't want to take those headers out if not absolutely necessary. Going to "narrow" the opening by a couple of feet or so (on the opposite side of the opened one). After that I'll pri ce out steel plate, since there's one 15 minutes or so from where I am.

thanks richard

[dpb]

...

My thoughts on LVLs wrt to what?

Again, the first thing is what is the final opening width and an actual design load? _THEN_ you can size various alternatives from replacement to augmentation as was suggesting. But, the key is you need good input on the load requirements from far more than can be assessed by anybody on a usenet group simply looking at a couple of pictures that don't even show the overall structure. (And you'd be extremely foolish to rely on anybody who would claim they knew enough to be able to tell you precisely the answer to those from the available information.)

At a minimum if you're not going to get a real engineer's input get the input from a _good_ builder even if have to pay him for a visit.

Sure, you may get by winging it, but do you really want the risk of having to go back and do it right perhaps just to save a few hundred bucks at most up front? No, it's not going to fall down if you just do as I suggest may be adequate w/o more input but it might be just enough on the "flexy" side to allow enough sag to crack drywall seams and such. Or, otoh, you could spend a bunch of bucks on a full-width steel plate when the pro w/ on-site info could tell you it's fine w/ much less...

[a2rjh]

LVL in general, not specific to my post. A shot in the dark. Not sure if you've dealt or used them. Are they any good?

thanks richard

[hrhofmann]

if the existing header will work not. This opening is a 10 1/2 ft opening b etween living and breakfast area. Should I cut the purlin braces above the header and add a strongback to support it? pics @

* Opened up one of the ugly plywood wrap. Picture "layer" shows what is underneath. From top to bottom, (1) & (2) top plates, (3) & (4) double 2X6 on stacked on its sides, (5) sheetrock and (6 ) trim finish covering sheetrock on top of posts. * Picture "wide" shows th e overall view * picture "left" shows jack stud in relation to marked heade r * picture "attic" shows header from above the top plate with purlin brace on left.

Sorry, but those photos were almost useless. We need a view of the entire proposed opening dead on, not a side view. Then close in on each of the t wo existing sides, and then as good a decription of the existing beam as po ssible. What is the beam supporting, a living space, an attic floor, do at tic trusses rest on this beam in any way, etc???

[dpb]

...

Well, I'll step up on OP's behalf in that regard -- actually, did pretty well in showing the construction, just didn't describe what it was he wants as an end result.

The existing beam is two 2x6 vertically stacked but not connected, w/ under a double 2x4 top plate. There's then a half-inch of ply to match the thickness of the 3-1/2 of the top plate.

There's a bottom 1x that is simply decorative trim.

The ceiling joists rest on the beam on the upper top plate in the attic--his foot is on one to the right and the next set over are to the left beside the roof rafter bracing purlin.

Pretty standard construction -- just don't have the overall dimensions, etc., needed to have any better idea of what loadings might or roof pitch, etc., but the actual existing construction is pretty clear.

[dpb]

On 8/11/2013 7:08 PM, [e-mail] wrote: ...

...

They are what they are...far too general a ? to respond to. They're an engineered beam that has very consistent properties suitable for many purposes, but not necessarily the answer to everything...

[hrhofmann]

What was the spacing between the two removed powts? What is the proposed spacing between the new posts?