I was looking on Ebay for some aircondition gauges and noticed that som eof
them mention 'for use on aircondition system 10 Amps high rate chargine'
I am familiar with basic air condition systems and very familar with
electrical equipment, but what is it with the 10 Amps stuff ?
I would think that the maximum pressure would be the limitation of the gauge
And for which refrigerant (altho R12 is now so out of date it's
extremely rare to find other excepting on my '79 JD 4440 and the like,
of course... :) Fortunately there was a stash here that's lasted so far).
I've never seen such altho I did see somewhere I seem to recall
something about standard recharge procedures don't apply to a hybrid
vehicle for some reason -- wonder if it could possibly have something to
do with that altho it's purely conjectural.
Got a link to an example handy?
They are for a lot of the common gases. The recharge procedure may be for
some of the blended gases. I think 401A may be one of them. As it is a
blend and the different gases comes off at different pressures you have to
use the suction side as normal,but charge it with liquid , most of the time
by inverting the bottle. It has to be done very slow so the liquid will
turn to a gas as it works its way to the unit that it being recharged.
It does not mater what the gauges are really for as long as I can read the
pressure, there are lots of pressure/temperature charts around. If the
gauges are labled for the gas in use, it just saves a step of looking them
up from the chart.
The ones I have been looking at on ebay are mostly calibrated in deg C
instead of F. Probably have to have a chart to convert that anyway. No big
deal to me as long as I don't forget to do it.
Here is one of the ebay numbers that lists that 10 amp thing. It is one of
the blue boxes listed as Features.
I read your post twice, and I have totally no clue.
Got my EPA card in 1995, and been killing equipment
since then, with varying degree of success.
Please post a URL to the gauge set in question.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
I got the EPA card around that time also. Around the time they started
issuing them. Where I worked as an electrician we did the electrical part on
some 20 ton water cooled units, but the mechanics did most of the work on
them. I don't know what the amps would have to do with the gauges. My 2.5
or so ton has a compressor that is rated for about 16 amps for what ever
that is worth, probably nothing..
Here is the ebay number for one of them. Go down the page to a big blue box
labled Features that describes the gauges and you will see a line about the
I found the item
Totally no clue what the ten amps is about.
Your 2.5 tonner at 16 is probably FLA, or full load amps.
My guess would be "Ingrish" was not the Chinese copywriters first language.
If you google "10 Amps High Rate Charging" (with the quotes),
that gauge set appears on Amazon (private seller) and a few other sites.
Don't mean to sound like a dick but I use Yellow Jacket gauges to service my systems.
What's the point of checking pressure with cheap/inaccurate gauges?
And you risk permanent compressor damage if you overcharge some systems.
I understand what you mean about inaccurate gauges. I looked at the set I
have and they are Yellow Jacket. I got them used from someone that was
retiring about 15 or more years ago. Not too sure how old they are and
while the gauges and manifold seem to be ok , I was thinking the hoses may
be bad after all the years. I used them twice about 10 or more years ago
and they were ok then.
If the hoses would hook up, the price of the hoses is about worth the cost
of the whole thing.
For home use they may be good enough. It should be realtive easy to verify
them . Just put the refrigerant to them without hooking to the unit. Then
read the pressure and get the air temperature and look at the press/temp
curve. That would give a one spot check about half way between the
pressuers of interist.
I worked calibrating a lot of instruments of all kind where I worked.
Things from very low vacuum to around 3000 psi and lots of different
electrical instrumeents. We had caliberation equipment traceable to the
NIST ( or whatever).
If I did service work, I would spring for one of the quality digital gauge
sets like I am seeing on the Youtube vids. I really hate to do work with
equipment I do not trust, so I don't think you sound like a Dick with your
Not sure if you followed a thread I started a couple of weeks ago about
getting ripped off by the One Hour service charging $ 89 to come out and
then about $ 350 more for a capacitor that should have been charged about
$ 50 for.. He did a good of checking things, but could have done all that in
30 minuits. I did get a good education out of the man for that. Most home
owners would not have gotten or been interisted in getting the education I
got out of that. The man did no tdo the ripping off as the company has 5
levels of charging depending on what they do.
I am just determined not to get ripped off again for the same thing that I
can do myself. Bought a capacitor and relay for the unit to put in storage
for about $ 35 total for both. I do have a jug with about 25 pounds of r-22
in it here.
Yes, I know Hilti is one of the standards. Used the stud gun and other hand
tools by them. Just not familiar with the tool brands specific to
refergeration. I think Imperial may be another brand that is toward the
From what I have learned over the years, it is not the tools, but the
knowlege of the man that makes the difference. However, if the man can
afford it, he will have the better tools.
My backgound is in electronics and so is part of my hobbies. Good
electronic test equipment is very expensive. Over the years I have learned
how to make do with the less expensive stuff, however it often takes much
longer. For a hobby time does not usually make much difference. When doing
a job, time is money and one needs the best tools he can afford. That is
why I agree with the fellow above.
Most likely the tools from HF will be ok for the home owner or for someone
to do very light work. Maybe if you had gotten some quality gauges the first
time you would not be going back to HF for more.
I just bought an off brand hammer drill for a low price. It will probably
be fine around the house to sink a few holes in the brick to put in some of
the blue plastic anchors to hold things on the brick. If I was planning on
using it very much instead of $ 20 I would have gotten a brand name like
Hilti or Dewalt for probably 10 times that or more.
In alt.home.repair, on Thu, 13 Aug 2015 11:54:23 -0400, "Ralph Mowery"
I bought one from HF because the price was so low, even though I didn't
have a use for it yet. My first use was lending it to a friend who lent
it to a friend who used it to drill holes in the foundation of a rental
property to eliminate or forestall termites. Apparently the drill
didn't do too well, but OTOH, he provided the bit and the cement
foundation might have been pretty hard. He ended up paying a pro to do
this and the cardboard box the drill came in came back a bit beat up.
Next time I only lend the tool and not the box.
However when I couldn't find my two drills with big chucks I used this
to drill the 5/8" hole for the drain tube from my portable AC. I was
surprised to find that the drill had only one speed, which was Fast!!.
I didn't know they still made drills that had only one speed.
In the soft material under the 2nd floor overhang, it ripped a hole
bigger than the bit, which I think would not have happened with a
variable speed drill. But since I was already up on the ladder to
drill the hole, it was not a burden to caulk. I had an old tube of
matching caulk and with moderate to great squeezing, I got 3 inches of
caulk out of the opening, just enough to caulk around the tube.
(It's actually quite nice that the required color for my townhouse
exactly matches brown latex caulk. When I first bought the house, I
dirlled a 1/2" or bigger hole in the siding from the inside, patched it
with brown latex caulk over 30 years ago, and have never noticed the
hole since. And the caulk really doesn't shrilnk.)
I save almost everything I have. I'm 68 and still have tools from my
Handy Andy tool set that I got when I was about 8. Although the block
plane is too simple, hard to adjust and probaby can't be sharpened
WRT the two adult quality tools, I broke the chisel handle off when I
was 9 (adult quality but I'm not saying it was high-quality) and I had
the full size screwdriver until I was 30 but I don't know where it is
now. Probably in the trunk of my car when those tools were stolen.
I also dont't have anymore: never figured out how to sharpen the
But despite the fact that if I buy quality, I'll have it for the rest of
my life, there are many things I'll only do once, and it's still not
worth buying quality. If I ever burn out or break a HF tool, that
probalby means I'll buy a better one the next time.
I got some flat penciles from www.sciplus.com American
Science And Surplus. Not used them yet. Some day maybe.
Now days, Handy Andy is sexist, and would never
be sold in stores. At least, not in Target.
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