:) I would like to know what the benefits to glue traps are, though. At
:) this point I'm willing to do whatever works best.
Safer to use, so no broken fingers or puppy snouts.....lower profile, so
can be placed in areas the snap traps sometimes can't.....rats are
neophobic, some times they explore the edges of the traps and decide not
to go to the trigger, if they explore the edge of the glue trap, they
may get a foot stuck and end up getting the body stuck trying to release
the foot.....when the animal dies and the body goes cold, the parasites
that may be on the rat will crawl away, with the glue trap they too are
Let me make a suggestion: Your rat might be wary of human smell on the
trap, from you handling it.
Buy a new set of traps (cheap enough). Put on a pair of rubber
dishwashing gloves before opening the package. Bait & set the traps
wearing the gloves.
This approach worked for me, for what was apparently a very
Any suggestions on how to
:) > Robert Barr wrote:
:) > Let me make a suggestion: Your rat might be wary of human smell on
:) > the trap, from you handling it.
:) > Buy a new set of traps (cheap enough). Put on a pair of rubber
:) > dishwashing gloves before opening the package. Bait & set the traps
:) > wearing the gloves.
:) > This approach worked for me, for what was apparently a very
:) > discriminating rodent.
:) That entered my mind at one point, but I didn't think it would be that
:) big of a deal. Sounds like a good idea.
The rodents will be used to any human smell, especially if they are
inside the structure. Gloves should be a must though when handling a
used trap or removing a carcass the fleas will readily jump to you from
the carcass and several types of bacteria will be found on the spoiled
meat/blood on the trap.
I had the same thing happen a few months ago. Actually I had 2 rats.
I live on a farm, and they are common. Outdoors and in the barn, I
shoot them with my 22 using bird shot. I have never had a rat in the
house till those, but mice are common. I have recently allowed one of
the barn cats to come indoors from time to time, to assist with the
mice. However, cats will NOT control rats. I guess the rats are too
big or too tough for cats (not sure). I have considered a rat terrier
dog, but I am not much of a dog lover, and then I got to keep feeding
Anyhow, your post drew my interest, because mine did the same thing,
moved into the insulation around the oven. Apparently that is where
they go. I put out a several of the rat snap traps, along with
several mouse traps too. I caught 3 mice the first day, but not the
rat. I put out rat/mouse poison. the same time I put out the traps.
The poison was eaten and some scatterred on the floor around the tuna
can I put it in. Whether it was the rat, or the mice, I am not sure.
However, several days later, and after finding more oven insulation
scatterred on the floor, I saw the ratrun under the fridge. I quickly
stacked boards and boxes and my tool box around the fridge, trapping
the rat under there. Then I grabbed a 5 gallon pail and opened a
small spot for the rat to escape, and began to bang on and rock the
fridge. The rat came out and I placed the pail over it. My plan was
to slide the pail toward the door and outside, but when I got to the
threshold, it almost got away. It's head popped out from under the
pail. I slid the pail back off the threshold crushing the head under
the pail, and I stood on the pail. It just happened that I had a
piece of 2x4 standing behind the door. I grabbed the 2x4 crushed its
head and proceeded to beat it to death. (leaving a disgusting bloody
mess to clean up).
I was releived, because I was finding it hard to sleep knowing that
thing was in my house.
I forgot to mention that the FIRST thing I did was find the hole where
it entered. I had to do some serious tearing things apart to find it.
It turned out there was a hole chewed next to the pipes behind my
bathtub, where there is a crawl space below. I filled the hole with
"Great Stuff" foam, then put some scrap tin on top, and over that,
some plywood. I also placed some large blocks of rat poison in the
crawl space, and went around outside and fixed some foundation holes
OK, the rat is gone, or so I think......
The next day I find another piece of oven insulation on the kitchen
floor. I never really considered another rat, just thought the piece
blew out from under the stove from the air register nearby. 3 or 4
days later I am on the computer when I hear a loud snap in the
kitchen. I ran in there, and found the rat trap between the stove and
fridge snapped shut, but see no rat. Seconds later I see movement
behind the fridge, and there was the rat flipping around. Apparently
the trap had broken its neck or something but the body was flipping
around. I ran and grabbed my 2x4 and beat that one to death, leaving
a nasty mess behind the fridge.
I have not seen any more rats, or even mice. I have not found any
more entrance holes either.
As far as the oven, I noticed the same thing. When I turned it on, it
smelled nasty. I am not able to afford a new stove right now, and
finding used propane stoves is not easy. I just have not used the
oven since, I rarely ever use the oven, and got one of those electric
My plan is to keep watching for a cheap used stove, but if I dont find
one by Spring, I may take mine outdoors and see if I can completely
disassemble it, then clean it all with bleach, install new insulation
and put it back together. I cant do that now in the cold and snow.
I'm sure it can be disassembled, but could be a lot of work. Aside
from the odor, I think too much insulation was removed to be safe to
use the way it is now.
Whatever you do, be sure to find and close up the entrance hole, or
they will keep coming in.
I hate rodents !!!
PS. My next stove (or this one if I rebuild it), will have 1/4" mesh
screening placed over all openings behind and under the stove. I dont
want this to happen again. I figure I can install it with sheet metal
screws and wahers.
I had a similarly difficult time trapping a rat in my house
as the OP. The city rodent control officer advised setting
the spring trap (Victor type) at a right angle to the wall,
with the bail springing toward the wall. The idea, I guess,
is to make it harder for the rat to jump out of the
way. Once I started doing that, my rat ceased having
success in springing the trap without injuru <g>. While I
can't claim I have conducted randomized controlled trials,
I have found that this setup improves my success with both
rats and mice.
Good luck. Getting a rat can be difficult and
Mike Lacy, Ft Collins CO 80523
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