I am remodeling my kitchen and I am going to install Broan custom RMPE
range hood with exterior blower. The blower will be mounted on outside
wall and will be connected to the hood insert with 8" elbow and 8" X
10" reducer duct following manufacturer's specifications. It means
there will be 10" hole in the kitchen outside wall which will suck a
lot of cold air at winter and hot air at summer. It will seriously
compromise insulation of my house. Unfortunately, I do not know how to
resolve this issue. Ideally, I would prefer to have some sort of air
tired shutter that would close this duct when I am not cooking. I
wonder what other people do who have range hood vented outside.
Isn't the purpose of a ducted range hood to suck the air from inside the
kitchen and move it to the outside of the house? I don't know why air from
the outside should be getting inside your house at all.
This is Turtle.
you need to have make up air added to the hood and you will only pull out about
10% of the air pulled from the house. all commecial ketchens have these make up
air type range hoods and could not afford the cooling cost without the make up
air system to not pull all the air out.
There was a local chicken fring place here in town that did not use the by-pass
air system on the range hoods and it took 25 tons of cooling to cool the
building. He went to range hood by-pass air on his hoods and he only need 10
tons to cool the building now.
If You have possitive pressure on your home and then turn on a full pull range
hood with no by-pass air on it. It is going to cost you big time on cooling when
you run the range hood with no by-pass in hot weather. Now most home are set up
this away and nobody cares to have by-pass air systems. Now All Commercial
kitchens have by-pass air systems on their range hoods and do not want to pay
big time on cooling or heating cost.
I am just installing the very same Broan range hood insert and have a Broan
exterior fan on my roof. Both the fan and the insert have dampers which
close when the fan is not in use to stop backdrafts. There will always be a
little leakage but you do need some air exchange. Remember to insulate the
pipe between the fan and the hood to reduce condensation if you are in an
area that has real winters.
For your installation, I would reduce from the 10" fan to the 8" duct as
close to the fan as possible, possibly with a 10" cap, with an 8" stub
fitted into it. This would require you to cut the 8" hole in the cap and do
some sheet metal work to fit the stub into it. This would allow the inside
of the wall to only need an 8" hole. A transition fitting would be too long
to accomplish this.
The fan unit probably comes with a built in back draft damper
that will open only when the blower is on. thats almost
standard. Your kit probably includes that feature.
if not you can order it as an add on. not expensive.
Unfortunately, I do not know how to
What are you proposing --- eat everything cold. Boiling produces humidity,
heat and odors that can travel through the house. Frying produces, grease,
heat and odors that again travel through the house. A gas range produces
byproducts of combustion that some people are sensitive to. If one is
cooking a moderate to large meal, exhausting the humidity, heat (in Summer),
odors and other fumes and vapors is a good idea along with allowances for
make up air, but should only be run during the cooking and not left
operating, as it will cause a larger load on heating or cooling or negative
air pressure in the house.
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