I am trying to put clapboards (FJ cedar) on a small wall. Nailing them
without causing splits seems to be beyond my skill level. (Using Maze
STORMGUARD nails. Face-nailing above the lap. Not trying to set them.
The problem seems to be just that my last hammer blow is more than the
unsupported wood can take. Alas.)
So, I'm thinking to cut a rabbet along the bottom edge of the
clapboards, so they can lay flat instead of bridging. Is there a reason
not to do this?
There are a lot of different views on that. Western Red Cedar Lumber
Assoc (the ppl who make it) says above the lap ...
As does 'Fine Homebuilding'
In my googling, it seems that the 'science'/professional sites say above
the lap; the ppl who say 'through' are contractors and the like. They
certainly know more about it than I, but ...
Well, (a) these nails have a fairly blunt point anyway (they're intended
for nailing siding), and (b) when the claps split, the nail is clear
through, and I'm trying to set the head flush.
I could leave the head a little proud, but I can't imagine that's how
they're supposed to be. (Though, I haven't found anything that says one
way or another, unless "face-nailing" means something different than my
Leave the heads 1 mm. proud until all are in place: then go over all
heads with a nail-set (and very light hammer) to set them flush.
(You will get more skilled with practice, so you might want to
start at the least visible part of the wall.)
On Sat, 27 Oct 2012 14:11:16 -0400, "Don Phillipson"
The problem with that strategy is that if you do split a board, it's
not going to be easy to replace. When nailing cedar clapboard by
hand, I always drilled a pilot hole (1/16", IIRC) if the nail was
within 2" or so of the end of the board.
Just a lot more work.
The boards should overlap by about an inch and the nail is driven
through both boards where they overlap.
I can get special thin grooved nails for this purpose that also help
I expect you can find similar in the USA
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