I had read that new drywall needs to be primed/sealed before trying to
apply wallpaper; "Shieldz" was mentioned specifically, so I bought a qt.
can of clear Shieldz (it's a small area). After applying one coat I
checked online to see how long I should wait before applying the paper,
only to find that they say that for use over mudded drywall I should use
the white Shieldz -- but although it's made in quart cans nobody sells
it in quart cans.
Is there a good substitute that might be available in quart cans?
I don't think any particular primer is necessary. The purpose of the sealer
is to seal the drywall so it doesn't suck the moisture out of the wallpaper
paste before it can adhere properly.
I sanded down one wall in the Great Room (formerly known as the "living
room"). Nasty job, but it got rid of the drywall texturing. I then painted
the wall with two coats of some white latex paint I had on hand. This served
as the basis for a thirteen-foot mural wallpaper, constructed out of ten
In your case, you already have one coat of sealer. Try slapping a piece of
wet paper on the wall and see, after twenty minutes or so, whether the wall
has absorbed any moisture. If not, you're good to go. If the wall is soggy
or wet, another coat of something (Kilz, sealer, paint, etc.) is indicated.
The surface still feels rough, not as though it has been sealed at all:
no smooth film on the surface. The composition of the two kinds of
Shieldz is totally different.
But I will try your suggested test.
To facilitate the removal of the paper in the future all surfaces should be
primed with an oil base primer. Failure to do so will result in damage to
the drywall when the paper is removed EVEN if it says strippable.
Tinting the primer to the same shade as the paper background will help hide
the seams for darker papers.
Please come visit http://www.househomerepair.com
I agree that oil-based paints are more secure against water, but if latex
paints were all that permeable, there wouldn't be a market for latex-based
exterior paints! Heck, if latex exterior paints were not immune to water,
everybody in California would be screwed.
A little late, I know.....but, there is a product called "size", for all
types of wall coverings and new or old drywall...
Go to your friendly paint store guy and tell him what you are
doing...Then buy a quart of "sizeing liquid." Apply two coats, let dry
between coats. Hang paper. Done..!
The primer size will allow you to move <slide> the paper on the wall and
will not dry up on you before you can position it
to where it needs to be. Also will allow wall covering to be stripped
off when you
get tired of looking at it...
So, information like this, which is all over the net, is incorrect?
"The truth of the matter is that sizing is a process that allows wallpaper
to be installed with ease and at the same time allows it to be removed at
some future time with little or no effect on the wall substrate."
It's too bad you're illiterate but here, I'll try to help anyway:
"Wallpaper adhesive can bond to drywall paper. Drywall that is not primed
^^^^ ^^ ^^^ ^^^^^^
and sized properly will absorb these adhesives and tear. Drywall repair
may be necessary."
Prime/paint, same deal. You said nothing about either.
Having been bitten by morons, such as you, I would *always* paint with a high
quality paint before papering. Actually, I would never paper, rather leave
that for the bottom of your cage.
from that URL:
"Summary: Wallpaper adhesive can bond to drywall paper. Drywall that
is not primed and sized properly will absorb these adhesives and tear.
Drywall repair may be necessary."
I've always heard, and read on labels, sizing is a thin layer of paste
applied over a 'sealed' surface, too. Plus, sizing the wall with a
thin coat of paste prevents an instantaneous 'drying' of the paste on
the paper, thus allowing one to move it around a bit, AND fill in
rough surfaces with a very thick layer of gluebehind the paper.
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