prepping for floating floor

Jul 16, 2006 3 Replies

I have read a number of posts regarding self-levelling a floating floor. In my case, I am working in a slightly below ground apartment suite that has a concrete floor. The room I am working in dips 3 inches over about 12 feet. I am trying to put in a floating floor since the old carpet was hideous, but do not want to create a mammoth job for myself as it is only a single bedroom and does not justify an extensive amount of work or money.


** For the pragmatic among you:

My initial hope was to simply ignore the slope. Although it would be nice to have it level too, I was more concerned with dips and valleys. If I am willing to put up with a slightly uneven floor, I assume that the primary drawback is &#39;bounce&#39; in the areas of the floor over a valley. I have also seen quite a variance in &#39;allowable&#39; flatness variations. I recognize that a &#39;proper&#39; floor should be something like < 1/8" over 8 feet, but have also seen posts that pragmatically indicate that even dips of 1/8" over a couple of feet may be acceptable, particularly if one can secure down the middle of these sections to make them less mobile. Also, I was wondering if realistically one can get away with less evenness in the direction perpindicular to the direction that you are laying the floor. I realize that this is all a little hacked, and not officially recommended, but would appreciate any feedback on these ideas - including future problems that any of these &#39;hack solutions&#39; may cause. (I don&#39;t mind losing out on the aesthetics of a perfect floor, but want to clearly understand any &#39;flaws&#39; that I may decide to live with).


** For those who maintain a &#39;do it properly attitude&#39;, perhaps you could comment on the options below:

By the sounds of it, one option is to fill the room with a layer of sand screed until it is close to level, and then (optionally ?) use a self-leveller to make it even truer. (this would bring the concrete slab above the low end of the drywall - I assume that I would leave a



3/4 inch gap or so between the edge of the new concrete and the wall - is this ok?).

I was wondering, however, if it would be a little easier (or advisable) to simply toss down some plywood and shim it where necessary to achieve a fairly even surface. This would also allow me to secure down any sections that may still &#39;bounce&#39; a little if the end job is not perfect.



The dip also rises again as the floor goes into the bathroom (where I was hoping to lay tile). This may also affect the decision above...(?)



Thanks very much,


- RG



I have read a number of posts regarding self-levelling a floating floor. In my case, I am working in a slightly below ground apartment suite that has a concrete floor. The room I am working in dips 3 inches over about 12 feet. I am trying to put in a floating floor since the old carpet was hideous, but do not want to create a mammoth job for myself as it is only a single bedroom and does not justify an extensive amount of work or money.

** For the pragmatic among you:

My initial hope was to simply ignore the slope. Although it would be nice to have it level too, I was more concerned with dips and valleys. If I am willing to put up with a slightly uneven floor, I assume that the primary drawback is &#39;bounce&#39; in the areas of the floor over a valley. I have also seen quite a variance in &#39;allowable&#39; flatness variations. I recognize that a &#39;proper&#39; floor should be something like < 1/8" over 8 feet, but have also seen posts that pragmatically indicate that even dips of 1/8" over a couple of feet may be acceptable, particularly if one can secure down the middle of these sections to make them less mobile. Also, I was wondering if realistically one can get away with less evenness in the direction perpindicular to the direction that you are laying the floor. I realize that this is all a little hacked, and not officially recommended, but would appreciate any feedback on these ideas - including future problems that any of these &#39;hack solutions&#39; may cause. (I don&#39;t mind losing out on the aesthetics of a perfect floor, but want to clearly understand any &#39;flaws&#39; that I may decide to live with).

** For those who maintain a &#39;do it properly attitude&#39;, perhaps you could comment on the options below:

By the sounds of it, one option is to fill the room with a layer of sand screed until it is close to level, and then (optionally ?) use a self-leveller to make it even truer. (this would bring the concrete slab above the low end of the drywall - I assume that I would leave a

3/4 inch gap or so between the edge of the new concrete and the wall - is this ok?).

I was wondering, however, if it would be a little easier (or advisable) to simply toss down some plywood and shim it where necessary to achieve a fairly even surface. This would also allow me to secure down any sections that may still &#39;bounce&#39; a little if the end job is not perfect.

The dip also rises again as the floor goes into the bathroom (where I was hoping to lay tile). This may also affect the decision above...(?)

Thanks very much,

- RG

I have a similar mess and am anxoous to see replies. There&#39;s a couple other avenues you can try:

1) Mudjacking - problematic - may not be able to lift the slab

2) Topping with high density high-tech concrete. May be marketed as Acousticrete. They prime your floor, mix up the stuff, and pump it in. Drawbacks - expensive; weight may further depress slab.

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