From various US published sources:
US dairy producers are churning out way too much milk, and they have been for a while. ?Farmers in the U.S. are pouring out tens of millions of gallons of excess milk, amid a massive glut that has slashed prices and has filled warehouses with cheese,? the Wall Street Journal reported last October. In the first eight months of 2016, the paper added, US dairy farmers dumped out 66 Olympic swimming pools worth of milk, the ?most wasted in at least 16 years.? In 2015, too, there was ?so much milk flowing out of US cows?that some is ending up in dirt pits because dairies can?t find buyers,? Bloomberg reported at the time.
The backstory: Goaded by rising demand for dairy products from Asia and low prices for feed, US farmers scaled up in 2014, increasing their herds and squeezing out more milk per cow. Trouble is, farmers in other big milk-producing regions like New Zealand made the same bet, and now there?s a global milk glut. The practice of dumping surplus milk has continued into this spring, the US Department of Agriculture recently reported.
US agriculture programs give dairy farmers incentive to produce as much as possible, embroiling them in boom-and-bust cycles like the current one, driving small farms out of business and forcing survivors to scale up. As recently as 1950, around 3.5 million US farms kept dairy cows; by 2012, that number had dwindled to 58,000, even as overall production surged. The shakeout continues. ?In 2010, Vermont had more than 1,000 dairy farms, but by the end of last year there were just more than 800,? NPR recently reported.
A September 2015 survey by the U.S. National Milk Producers Federation found that half of all workers on U.S. dairy farms are immigrants and if those workers were excluded from the workforce, the price of a gallon of milk would soar 90 per cent. It said the cost to the U.S. economy would be $32 billion.
Last month, another study found that if all illegal workers were kicked out of New York state, 1,100 of its farms would go out of business or reduce their output significantly.
The industry itself in the United States has admitted they wouldn?t be viable if they couldn?t use undocumented workers
Meanwhile, the massive overproduction persists amid heroic, government-led efforts to prod Americans to consume more dairy. As Josh Harkinson reported in 2015, USDA dietary guidelines urge everyone nine years old or older to drink three cups of milk per day, a recommendation that owes much more to industry lobbying than it does to sound nutrition science. Then there?s Dairy Management, a group overseen by the USDA that works with ?influential and globally recognized companies such as McDonald?s, Domino?s, Quaker, Taco Bell and Pizza Hut? to work more dairy into fast food. Oy.
? Canada aside, though, US dairy farmers clearly can?t export their way out of the dairy glut. As Chris Holman, a Wisconsin farmer who is active in the Wisconsin Farmers Union, noted in a recent blog post, the underlying problem is a ?vicious cycle? that leads to oversupply: ?When markets are up, farms often expand and production increases to take advantage of better prices. When the milk supply goes up and markets are down, farms often expand and production increases as they try to keep their heads above water.? Holman recently told me that ?if every dairy farm in Wisconsin culled one cow out of production, it would more than make up for the milk lost to Canada, and everyone can keep farming.?
But organizing such a move would essentially require supply management?something anathema to big US dairy processors, which enjoy all the cheap milk encouraged by a lack of production controls. Ferd Hoefner, former policy director and current senior strategic adviser for the National Sustainable Agriculture Coalition, told me that the
2014 farm bill included a supply management program for dairy, but it was struck down at the last minute.
Canada?s dairy farmers are largely insulated from these cycles. That?s because, in sharp contrast to the US government, Canada?s dairy policy is based on production quotas that prevent farmers from either under- or overproducing. The program guarantees farmers get a price that covers their production costs, and slaps a high tariff on dairy imports, protecting them from foreign competition. Canadian consumers tend to pay more for milk than their peers, but not prohibitively so. Overall, Canadians devote just 9.7 percent of their overall expenditures to groceries, one of the lowest rates in the world. (US consumers have the lowest rate of all: 6.4 percent.)
Canada?s dairy program, known as ?supply management,? might sound crazy to US ears, but it has advantages. In an excellent 2010 Gastronomica article, Barry Estabrook noted that, while decades of booms and busts had hollowed out dairy farming in New England and upstate New York, small and mid-sized dairy farms just over the border in Ontario?farming the ?same gently rolling tapestry of field and forest??are thriving.