OK - I pulled off the top of the deck lamp junction box and isolated
the wires going directly to the underwater bulb (recall that turning it
on trips the GFI, which tests to be working correctly.
Between the two leads to the bulb (green and black) there is
continuity. Between each of the individual leads and the pool ground
(electrical junction box) there is also continuity. I think this is
expected from the green (ground) lead --- but I'm guessing the fact
that the black lamp lead is also grounded is what's causing the GFI to
Is this right?
What's the next step in repair? Pulling the wire to the niche and
replacing --- or is pulling the lamp housing up the surface for
Thanks for ideas?
Well, if the hot side is grounded there's a problem... :) But
"continuity" is something else..if the bulb is intact, there will be
continuity through the filament--but it shouldn't be a dead short.
I think b) is the next step...of course, I figured it was where you
needed to look to begin with, too... :)
Now you've confirmed that you have a ground fault in the fixture/wiring. You
have three choices: leave it disconnected and have no underwater light,
somehow get the stuck screw out and "try" to replace the lamp if bad and the
gasket(good luck) or spend a few hundred dollars and get an entire new
Buy a new fixture. Don't attempt a repair.
I'm not saying it can't be fixed... but do you really want to wonder if
your fix is holding up every time you jump in the pool?
Even if it's $1000; either buy a new fixture, or go without.
Well, thats what I would do, anyway.
On 3 Jul 2005 10:32:03 -0700, "ron email@example.com"
The next step is getting that screw out and getting the lamp out. Once
you get it up on the deck you will know what is next. You can get a
new lamp assembly for about $125-150 on the net.
It may just be that the old one is full of water. The socket and wires
are "potted" so it is not likely there is a problem there.
If you do decide to pull out the light BE SURE you tie a piece of 1/4"
nylon rope or similar to the cord securely and pull it through so you
can pull the new cord back in.
The "electrical" part is just to connect the 3 wires in the cord back
to the junctions in the deck box.
Check the fixture. Not a big job to remove and disassemble.
Regarding the wiring, wet niche lights are typically wired with just UF
cable directly buried in the backfill. The via into the niche is just a
1/2 ID tube that is filled with caulk. If there's a problem inside the
niche or the via, then you may fix it. If the problem is some buried wire,
See my page at http://www.truetex.com/pool.htm
In the USA it is illegal to wire wet niche fixtures with UF cable. The PVC
pipe feeding the niche will probably be 1" as it must contain a #8 solid
bonding wire along with the fixture's feed cable
If the pool was built in the US in the last thirty years, UF feeding wet
niche fixtures was and is illegal. If the fixture is properly installed and
wired it can either be repaired from the fixture end or the whole unit and
attached rubber cord can be removed and replaced without digging or
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