The addition of the DPDT switch makes the installation more professional and more robust with increased applications and value after the conclusion of the project with minimal extra work. Do you think it is fair to call the flanged input and DPTP switch a "single circuit generator input with manual transfer" when showing the house? Do you think it will increase the home value more than the cost of the switch?
I don't plan on ever flipping the switch in my installation. When the power goes out I get notified on my phone. If it is out for very long I have to plug the UPS into a generator or else the systems go into hibernation. When the power comes back on the systems come out of hibernation and continue as they were.
To answer your question I have put disproportional effort into this posting. I have done so because I personally don't like it when I spend the time to help someone out and they don't bother to reply. I have also learned a little something and hopefully so have the other participants. I consider the room reasonably safe for my family and self in all regards. I apologize but I do not wish to revisit the entire scope of the project.
The practicality or cost effectiveness of your installation are things only you can judge. I only offer my two cents to help, and in the process I usually learn a few things
Bull. Trip-Lite is not a generic brand, and as I noted, the rack mount UPSes from a given company are the same guts as the non rack mount versions, only at a much higher price. If you don't want to recognize that reality, you're probably the type to also buy $100 power cords to make your CD player sound better.
Your idea that non-rack mount equipment is somehow a different class is truly laughable. Rack mount has nothing whatsoever to do with the quality of a piece of equipment, it is only a mounting standard and as I noted from most any given manufacturer the exact same guts are available in rack mount and non rack mount versions.
If your trying to dress a set to impress clients, admit that it is a cosmetics issue, don't try to justify the cosmetics with distorted and just plain false calculations.
Trying to make it appear that there is some advantage other than cosmetic to buying overpriced rack mount equipment is indeed cooking the books.
I have pointed out a common sense error. If you need to try to make things cosmetically flashy to try to impress technologically ignorant clients that is an entirely different issue.
There you go, the entire basis for your rack mount fetish - cosmetics to try to impress clients.
That's pretty lame, I have my generator located next to my detached shop and connected at my main panel with an approved interlock kit. I don't have to drag any cords anywhere to bring it online. Sounds like a better area for you to invest your time, effort and money in than running a UPS line upstairs. Get a standalone UPS for upstairs and put it behind a nice brushed anodized aluminum rack mount filler panel.
Put a 7W night light in a closed shoe box all day and see how hot it gets. Look at a 10W soldering iron melting solder. Heat will build over time from even a quite small source if the package design doesn't provide very good dissipation. My main UPS runs very cool, buy it does have a full time fan at low speed, which switched to full speed when the UPS switches to inverter.
You chose two examples which were both invalid. The tip of the 10W soldering iron has a tiny surface area to dissipate the heat from. In the enclosed example you don't talk about dissipating heat but the heat trapped in the box. mm says the entire surface area of his UPS is hot and dissipating heat. A better example would be that even a
Perfectly valid examples of how even a small amount of heat generated can build over time if it's not being dissipated. I don't know what planet you're on, but a 40W fluorescent tube most certainly does get hot with extended use in a normal environment. Not as hot as a 40W incandescent, but far hotter than ambient.
That reminds me of "slow glass" which is physically the same as regular glass, but optically it's 10 light-years thick. When you look into it you see what was on the other side 10 years ago. :-)
He should also avoid showing his setup to his technologically sophisticated clients. He doesn't want one saying "Why did you run a circuit all the way from the basement instead of just adding a new UPS in the attic? That would be cheaper and give more run time."
What make and model? There *are* true UPSes that convert line current to DC and then back to AC continuously, running the inverter all the time. The supposed advantage is that there's no discontinuity in the output waveform when the input line voltage goes away, but these UPSes are larger and heavier and dissipate significant power continuously.
Or you could have a unit with a ferroresonant voltage regulator, which wastes about 20% of its full load output rating in heat continuously.
But most people use standby power supplies that switch on only when AC fails. These dissipate little power when on standby (just enough to charge the batteries and run the electronics). Voltage regulation can be provided by tap-switching transformers, again with little heat generated (some SPSes include this function).
I have a variety of APC SPS units, and none are more than slightly warm to the touch when operating in standby.
It's a Tripplite, but I don't know the model. (It's on the floor and one of the cords from something plugged into it is too short to pull the UPS out from under the desk, so it's very hard to see the model number.) It's about 8" high by 5"wide by 7" deep and iirc has one 4, or 6, AH battery inside. It has two tiny slide switches and 3 tiny lights at the top front. Much harder to turn on and off than the earlier one that had a big rocker switch at the very top.
Bought mine used without a manual, but I think I dl'd the manual from the manuf. website. But that might be on the previous harddrive.
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