Plaster crack repairs: feathering

The key is a few extra light coats is a better way to go than globbed on heavy ones that aren't flush with the existing wall and may develop cracks.

Use the 6" for the next 'light' coat. Very lightly sand using 120 grit drywall sandpaper when the coat is dry. Followed by the 10" knife w/ the same light sanding. Not a biggee if you get just a little heavy, or end up with a ridge or goober here'n there because you can sand that out easily. Some mud companies "Hamiltons" for instance, make different types of compound for pros.. From hard (for taping) to soft for finishing. For texturing I use the taping mud as it's harder when it dries after application. But All-Purpose should be all you need.

Thanks. Let me ask for a few clarifications:

What do you mean "as far as you can reach?" As far as I can reach along the length of the tape?

Where will this excess mud be?

The tape is only 2" wide, so I don't quite understand this caution.

Thanks, Joe!

Ed

"> All the previous tips are right on the mark. Let me add one more essential

Thanks!

You've got the right tools. Patch, dry, smooth, and repeat. Look at your patchwork using a troublelight held against the wall to sand out all the irregularities. Gradually move to a finer sandpaper and large putty knife. Use a latex primer. Sanding does make a mess so use drop cloths or plastic sheets to help with the cleanup.

Does someone want to say something about mud consistency? I've been mixing it with a consistancy of peanut butter for the initial layers, but was wondering if a little thinner would be better for finishing layers.

TIA

Ed