Had a sliding door in a kitchen once. Floor was so built up after 30+ yrs
it could not clear when pulled. Wasn't much wiggle room in the track
Door stayed stiff to what accessable cleaning would allow.
On Thu, 18 Nov 2010 05:16:05 -0800 (PST), jamesgangnc
I just fixed my sliding patio door. It started "dragging" when nearly
closed. Tried adjusting the roller on that side. Didn't help so I
removed the door. Cleaned years of pet dander that had collected under
the door (and in the rollers) . Cleaned the tracks and put new rollers
on both sides of the door. It almost slams now if I'm not careful
closing the door.
OP has advise on lifting the door panel out of the track. Remember
this is tempered glass and is heavier.
Technically you are correct, but most glaziers still refer to it as
plate glass. After over 20 yrs in the glass business I don't recall
any of the glaziers I worked with call it float. Actually, we hardly
used either term.
"Ron, I need a piece of 1/4" size x size"
But the bottom line is, it doesn't weigh more after it's been
Most times the operating panel is on the inside track (newer Anderson
are an exception, they put it on the outside so wind pressure
compresses the seals). Depending on manufacturer, you may just lift
the door up a little and then pull the bottom in off the track. On
many newer doors (Jeld-wen is one), you may have to remove the stop,
which is a strip of wood or vinyl at the top that holds the door in.
If you have to remove the stop, it will be held on with screws. Just
remove the screws and then the stop, then tilt the top of the door in
a bit and lift it out of the track. Be careful when you remove the
stop as the door will be free to fall on you! Have a helper hold it
while you remove the stop. As others have said, the doors are very
Oh, you will have to partially open the door first, both to get a
grip, and also on most doors to disengage the seal between the two
Define newer- the ones on this place are backwards like that, too, and
at least 20 years old. Means you have to open the screen (which is on
the inside) to close the door, not a minor consideration in bug season.
plus the track gets full of leaf debris easier, with no screen door
protecting it. Nor can you lock the door with a broomstick. It also
confused my heating contractor- he put the new floor register in front
of the wrong panel.
Gotta give the manufacturer credit, though- the doors still shut pretty
tight, in spite of abuse and zero upkeep. I really need to field-strip
and lube them, and soak the wood threshold in linseed or something.
But when I hit lotto and build my dream house, it'll be full-light
french doors. No slider shuts as tight as a 3-bolt hinged door.
I'm looking at this large picture frame window we were putting in new
construction. RO is prepped, ready, set go, heave the window in using
glass cups. I holding it so partner could get inside and put a cup on
it and do his things. Well I called him back up, so we could flip the
window. Mistake we had the drip holes on top.
Lesson learned <G>
Have look. Can you shift the panels from front to back? Doing so, will
the operator panel travel another direction?
I've accidentally placed the wrong panel door on the wrong part of the
track. That was obvious,....
Nope, that is the way they are designed. They clearly can only fit
together the way they are. Not sure of brand- only logo I can find is a
lower-case P over a lower-case D, on the latch controls. Of all the
upgrades this place needs, they are pretty low on the list. They work,
latch okay, and don't leak TOO bad yet. In all odds, they will be next
owner's problem to solve. I really do need to get off my ass and clean
and lube them, though.
On Wed, 17 Nov 2010 21:04:40 -0800 (PST), wndmaster
I got several more years out of mine by tightening the screws that are
in each end of the door. Tightening one lowers the wheel further, so
it rolls on the wheel insteal of scuffing the door itself against the
channel. Maybe in my case they had barely lowered the wheels enough
at installation, and they wore down faster than they would have if
they'd been tightened more in the first place.
Later I did remove the doors** and though I knew they were heavy, they
were much heavier than that. Two layers of glass, each thicker than
an average window I think, and I barely got them off and lying down
without dropping them. I may have leaned one and if it started to
move after setting it, I wouldn't have been able to stop it.
So I'd urge you to have a competent helper.
I don't remember if I retracted the rollers before trying to remove
the doors. It might have meant having to lift the doors less,
although maybe you can only force them lower, but when you lift the
door the rollers hang as low as they can go whether the screw is
retracted or not.
**, can't remember why (although it might have to do with putting a
burglar alarm switch in the channel. It's set so the door can be open
4 inches and the alarm set, but if the door is opened more than that
the alarm goes off. This meant using roller switches, drilling into
the basement, and in one case snaking the wire through the ceiling of
the basement family room.
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