Have a typical Colonial with horiz. wooden siding.
Needs a paint job, but not sure how this would be handled.
About, perhaps, 5% to 10 % of the paint is peeling.
O.K., I can certainly have that amount sanded down, and feathered prior
to any new paint.
But, any new paint only relies on the paint already down for adhesion I
would think. The new paint would only see what it is painted on; the old
The new paint never sees the actual wood underneath (except for the
small amount sanded down).
So, how does one ensure that the new paint will also not peel away as
soon as the old stuff probably will ?
Can't sand it all, way too much.
How is a situation like this handled ?
What am I missing ?
On Monday, August 31, 2015 at 12:17:59 PM UTC-4, Bob wrote:
It depends on why the existing paint is peeling. If it lasted
normal life+ and it's starting to peel from age, that's normal.
If it was put on and within a few years it's peeling, that suggests
an underlying problem that needs to be solved.
Assuming it's #1, then your plan to scrape, sand, etc the peeled
areas is the right one. Actually, I'd suggest using a Wagner paint
eater. It has a rough pad, like a super strong version of a pot
scrubbing pad. It's the best thing I've found for removing peeling
paint. Should be power washed first. Then I'd recommend using
XIM Peel Bond on the bare areas. It's a very thick primer that helps
level out the uneven areas and it's an excellent adhesion primer too.
Then use two coats of a good paint. I prefer Benjamin Moore.
And to answer your question, you're relying on the rest of the old
paint to be sound, so that it won't peel once covered and protected
by the new paint.
In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 31 Aug 2015 12:17:27 -0400, Bob
Painters all over paint houses without sanding the whole thing and
usually the parts that were good before painting don't peel after
painting. And like you say, you've scraped and even sanded the parts
that were peeling, so they're good too.
Perhaps some marginal areas you didn't treat will peel later.
So, use latex paint which can be patched without the difference or the
border showing, and save matching paint to do that if necessary. Save
a whole gallon if your house is big. Although supposedly you can get
matching paint at the paint store if you show them the color you want.
So at least paint something removed or removeable.
When I moved in to this house, the previous owner gave me the owners
manuals for everything and the receipts for many things, including the
kitchen floor and the carpet. I went there to buy spare for repairs.
It was 4 years later but they still had the same vinyl llinoleum and I
bought a piece, but they had no carpeting. I asked her why the
installers didn't leave extra for patching. She said, When we do that
the housewives call up and complain. I don't know why they can't
explain the purpose of the scraps to these housewives.
The seller even told me he spilled paint in the middle of the big
bedroom and had to cut a patch from the closet. I think I found the
place where he put the patch in, but I never found the place he took the
patch out. I guess he cleaned the painted part as well as he could and
put it back where the patch had come from, but I still don't see how I
XIM 11461 High Build Water Based Bonding Primer/Sealer
Clear high build, water based strong bonding primer, sealer and filler
Use with Latex topcoats
Penetrates Acrylic Latex and elastomeric paints, bonds to old paint,
wood, plywood, T1-11, PVC, Aluminum, Galvanized Metal, Brick and Stucco
Read the reviews on Amazon.
On Tuesday, September 1, 2015 at 3:50:47 PM UTC-4, Moe DeLoughan wrote:
That's the XIM Peel Bond that I recommended. I highly recommend it.
It's very thick so it helps even out the transition areas between the bare
spots and the painted spots after scraping, sanding, etc. That's in
addition to being an excellent primer.
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