You asked for information. It is NOT normal. Get the front end checked for loose components and alignment, and for running that downhill chicane every day you DEFINITELY want to slightly overinflate the front tires. Give me make, model, and tire installed and I'll give you more ingormation.
That would be a "HUNTER" alighnment machine
There are alignment guys, and alignment guys. Any alignment guy can set a car within limits - it takes a GOOD alignment guy who really understands what is going on to set the alignment perfectly for your driving conditions. I've known and worked with some of the best in the business. Iwas pretty good, but didn't do enough to be REALLY good - unlike my kid brother. He's an opinionated pain in the ass (at least ten times worse than me -) but there's not anyone I know who will consistently give you a better alignment. Any I knew who could are long retired.
You ARE going "too fast" for the tires and conditions. Again - what vehicle, and what tire - and WHAT PRESSURE are you running. Placard pressure for stock tires is about 5psi too low for best cornering wear on most cars - and for heavy cornering with front wheel drive mabee a bit more. I generally run8 to 10 psi over placard pressure - and I get even tire wear and very good tire life.
What year?? What tires do you have on it? Bridgestone Geolanders? or?
Are they 265-65s? a 245-70 will be about the same hight and won't give as much treadwear problems on the corners.
"performance" tires on that machine for your driving would be a TOTAL waste of money - and generally yhey wear a whole lot faster.
Equipment doesn't matter so much, what matters is the guy who did the job. But you don't throw up any red signs here.
I don't know, but the forces on the front and the back are very different, in part because of steering and in part because side-forces are very different.
I'd be more interested in the speed rating. The UT treadwear rating of
380 isn't terribly high but isn't terribly low either.--scott
#1. Make, Model, Year please?
#2. Cold(not driven) Tire pressures?
#3. What source are you going by for tire pressure?
Let's establish the basics here.
You do not mention frequently checking the tire pressure. Based on 65+ years of driving, I would run the pressure on the high side of recommended pressure.
afaik, the 4Runner does not have independent rear suspension. To simplify, the rear wheels will be perpendicular to the pavement while the front tire geometry will vary.
Long shot, but what sort of tire? I had a Michelin Anakee 2 front tire on one of my bikes that had a very strange wear pattern. Everyone who ran that tire saw the same thing and Michelin went to the Anakee 3 to correct the issue. Whether it was the tread block design or something else it developed a similar pattern to what you are describing except being a bike it was on both sides. It neither impaired the ride or handling, it just looked weird.
In conversations about this with GM engineers, they did mention problems with certain tires, and with certain vehicles.
Anyway, nearly everyone agrees the alignment should be checked. It's a basic first step - as long as it includes a full check of all the steering and suspension - and really should be done. But if the alignment is right on, then it's time to Google that vehicle and those tires to see if there is a common issue.
As I said previously, obtaining and setting factory recommended tire pressure is a start to checking how the vehicle handles.
Secondly, get it aligned. Make sure all adjustable parameters are in the middle of their specified ranges, even if zero degrees is not in the middle.
Finally, once alignment is done, and it still doesn't drive as expected, or tire wear is still happening, then you have damage - bent or worn parts. Wheels could be perfectly aligned, but be in the 'wrong place' on the vehicle: setback, where one wheel on the same axle is ahead of or behind the other by fractions of an inch. Or, another wheel higher or lower than the others due to spindle or body/frame damage, etc.
In the front, this could mean poor return from turns, or bad Ackerman angle. In the rear, it could mean thrust angle issues.
He probably didn't get it from the rotting corpse of the hobby horse that you beat to death, of course, of course. KHS. FCKWAFA! FR.
Chaya Eve: Don't be intimdated or put off by anyone - we're trying to help you.
Thekma isn't trying to help anyone. He's just trying to prove that he's smart (but he's not smart). FCKWAFA.
ALL of that is addressed in a PROPER full alignment.
I don't know the argument, here, but I DO know one can be screwed!
I like to think of myself as a "mechanic", but alignment and rear-ends have always eluded me. I did discover my Honda "consierge" lied like a rug, to me. He told me I needed new tires before "they" could perform a proper alignment. Later, at a Discount Tires" store, the shop droid performed a "proper alignment" and told me the tires mean, "nothing".
nb
notbob wrote: " Later, at a Discount Tires" store, the shop droid performed a "proper alignment" and told me the tires mean, "nothing".
nb"
I'm inclined to go along with the discount tire place! Design, condition, and alignment of suspension mean a lot more than old vs new tires, cheap vs top of the line tires. I've driven every kind of tire - from budget to the best, and the biggest difference I feel is from suspension and amount of steering assist.
That would do it. Especially if you travel it in both directions. Downhill places much more weight on the front end and will wear the tires faster. I would probably rotate the tires more often to try to compensate for the wear. You might want to step up to a stiffer sidewall and maybe even add some camber to even out the wear on the tires a bit.
But doesn't the higher pressure make the ride a whole lot bumpier, unless the road is perfectly flat?
No. In modern cars you float on a magic cushion of air. otoh, she did say 4runner. At least for the first generation nothing could make the ride any worse.
5PSI is almost undetectable and 10PSI on a 70 series tire still rides a lot better than a "properly inflated" 60 series.
I run 5# over and don't really notice any difference but handling is improved. At 10# over I imagine you'd see some difference. May be justifiable for the performance gains on tight turns.
In any case, it sounds like a great road to drive on. One of my favorite drives was going over the Futa Pass in Italy. This is where Ducati tests their bikes for performance on turns. There are other roads with tighter turn, but they are shorter than this.
Notice the rules on passing with a solid line. This is common there.
Thank you for that advice of
On the camber, if my search results are correct, the outside edge tire wear would be due to too much positive camber (top spread out). That seems to indicate that I would *lessen* the (positive) camber (get it closer to zero than it is now).
Is that the correct direction?
On the "stiffer sidewalls", I searched for what that means in terms of beign able to actually choose the stiffer sidewall between two tires was the aspect ratio and the load range.
Is that correct?
I'm not likely to get a "shorter" tire aspect ratio so the only viable option left is the higher load range (like going from 102S to 105S).
Are you suggesting that a higher load range tire will have less outside edge feathering?
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