On Sat, 21 Feb 2009 19:43:04 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
No, but there was no way I could, and that was a big part of
When the yoke was fully on the shaft, the end of the shaft
was flush with the yoke. There was nothing exposed to brush
(until I got the yoke off completely.)
Once I got it off, I polished the shaft with fine abrasive
paper, coated it with anti-seize, and pushed the yoke by
All the best,
I'm very pleased that you got your job accomplished, and
that's no yoke. Really, it's no yoking matter. Since
tomorrow is Sunday, I remind everyone the Bible says not to
be unevenly yoked. So, pull evenly on the yoke to get it
apart. I'll try not to wax poetic, though I can be a
slippery devil, and penetrate a bit.
The sandpaper and never seeze will save you a lot of work in
"Ladies and Gentlemen... We have a winner...!" (with
honorable mention to Tnom)
I did not have any beeswax handy, but did have some candle
Before describing my experience, I will admit that I thought
it unlikely that either technique would work because it
seemed to me that the melted wax would be far too viscous to
penetrate, and I had no luck with (what I thought were
So, this morning, with a candle in hand, I approached the
beast, lit my torch, heated the yoke slightly, and dabbed on
the wax, both in front of, and behind the yoke.
I then intended to hammer the yoke back on, but because of
the odd shape have to be very cautious to locate the blows
properly. The first few stroked were very light taps rather
than the firm strikes I expected to need.
Tap tap tap and the damn thing move... visibly.
Next, I grabbed my prybar and the spacer that allowed it to
work. I expected to have to lean into it as I had, but as I
got it into position just its weight and its wedging action
moved the thing slightly.
I gave a pull, and it moved about 3/4"... Another pull, and
it was in my hand.
I was truly astounded, and most appreciative.
I've been around tools for fifty years, and had not heard of
this wax trick before.
Sincere thanks for all the help,
A lot of mechanics use paraffin instead of beeswax.
I've also heated stuck items then quenched them with
oil which is wicked into the threads. Works well with
Liquid Wrench because you don't have to apply a lot
of heat for it to work.
I have never done anything like this, but I think it might not take
much. For one thing, I think the heat might weaken the crud in btween
the two pieces. Can't you try it with moderate heat, and if that
doesn't work, let it all cool and start again in an hour. It
s cold out, right. Should cool quicker than that.
Hit the whole thing with a hammer, to try to break up that crud. Even
rust should break up some, if that's what you think it is.
Hit it also while youre trying to separate it.
Not on the bearings of course. IIUC it's binding beween a shaft and a
Wear safety googles in case the hammer shatters. I hear they do that.
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