On Friday, June 13, 2014 4:19:37 AM UTC-7, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I've reported OVER & OVER & OVER that I HAVE tried headphones in my other audio devices; have also tried plugs, adapters; switched everything around. Nada.
I wouldn't be asking for help if I hadn't tried as much I could first!. Of course when a thread gets long, some info gets left behind.
Worth noting, is that Stumped usually deletes any
post over 100 lines of text. So, when HB does the
double lines and sends 300 lines of text, SM usually
just deletes the post as having no value. If HB
would trim text, then SM might read HB's posts.
Most meters will click headphones, also dynamic microphones.
Its not likely a 9 volt meter is without series resistance, but just use
I once blew out an expensive photodiode with a Tripplet on X1 scale.
workaround in the first place.
If you take the the output currently going from the TV to the stereo and
instead pipe it to the base station of wireless headphones, it should sound
as good as the HK unit. It all depends on whether your friend hooked up the
TV's with RCA audio output to the HK's input.
stereo to headphones; headphones themselves, umpty times. Have also
plugged various headphones into other audio equipt. where they work fine.
All points to JACK.
Does that include the adapter? I've had those units fail on me, too and
that would be the cheapest solution - obtaining a new size-changing adapter.
Have you established that the connector passes a stereo signal using other
equipment? Do you have a unit that had a 1/4" stereo output jack to test
the adapter/headphone combination exactly the way that you use it on the HK?
What devices are you using to test the headphones? I want to make sure
you're not checking the headphones without the adapter connected.
headphones into jack; headphone plug is too small. Have also switched these
around; no change.
It sounds like you are using mini-plug headphones (matchstick diameter) in a
stereo that uses standard 1/4" phone plugs. Those big connectors aren't
used much anymore except on larger stereos.
cleaner? Or Bob F's suggestion of sandpaper?
I would try a Q-tip dipped in rubbing alcohol (90+% if you have it) and
squeezed damp to see if any material comes off on the swab. Sandpaper I am
a little less sanguine about. I seriously doubt it's corrosion - it sounds
much more like physical damage.
I would focus on the adapter because it sounds like it sticks out of the HK
jack and absorbs the brunt of any tugging on the line even before the HK
jack does. The fact that it failed gradually seems to point to one of the
jacks - either the stereo or the adapter jack. I would also look at the
adapter first because the fix would be a lot easier. (-:
I have used sandpaper. Various grades and devices, burnishing tools, on
I have sat and cleaned silver plated contacts on large rotary switches with
tarnX with q tip. They started out all black. Cleans well. Wasn't even my
I had a lot of problems with sand getting into electronics in the desert.
Very fine stuff.
On Thu, 12 Jun 2014 09:42:30 -0700 (PDT), Higgs Boson
IIUC, to get the good sound you used to have, you were already using the
the same jacks that you'll be using with the wireless headphones he's
The problem with the tv's sound is almost surely the speakers themselves
and not the electronics or the jacks.
One can take a 2" by 3" by 1" transistor radio from the 1960's and plug
in a better speaker and it will sound pretty good. Do you remember
the cardboard tubular speakers. 12" wide by 2" in diameter. Sounded
Right now in my bathroom I have a 14" color tv with a two speakers from
one 1930's record player. One's bigger than the other. I've been
using them in two diferent bathrooms for hte last 40 years. They sound
great, but the speaker in the tv by itself sounds like Donald Duck. .
Small speakers never sound very good. And thin speakers, shallow ones
afaik never sound good either, but maybe the ones that come with thin
screen tv's are a litltle better. I didnt' even consider using the
speakers built into my thin screen monitor.
Relay contacts, sure. They experience arcing, and deposits, and even
maybe microscopic transfer of metal from one point to the next one.
They get much harder use than any part of a plug and jack, except maybe
if one is in the desert. .
I was asking about a 9 volt battery alone, no meter.
I often use a 1.5 volt battery alone to hear the click, and i know 1.5
volts won't burn out anything in my house (since I'm not some high tech
But since he's using bigger speakers, not earbuds, I don't think a 9-v
battery Alone, no series resistor, will hurt it. Just a louder click.
Still I live alone and like 9volt because there are thing on it to
attach the alligator clips and wires. He must have someone to hold them
to a 1.5 volt battery AA, or AAA, and then he be sure there is no damage
from that .
On Thu, 12 Jun 2014 20:43:25 -0700 (PDT), Higgs Boson
First I should say that we're not going in a very organized manner, I
think, and that's probably due to the nature of Usenet, where everyone
answers at once, but that should merely slow things down. It also
probably increases the chance of success.
Surely if you hear a click in one ear but not in the other, either
you're doing something wrong or there is something wrong with the
Related to my introduction at the top: I thought you had tested the
earphones on some other device and both sides worked.
When I read your first post, I thought maybe you had just rearranged
things without a) fiinding other headphones or b) finding another device
to plug in the headphones you wanted to use, but now I'm pretty sure you
did a, but not so sure you did b. You may have other devices with a
headphone jack. After years of ignoring the jack it's easy to forget
its there. Or your friends do.
On Friday, June 13, 2014 9:20:33 AM UTC-7, micky wrote:
As I just answered another friend above, I HAVE TESTED VARIOUS HEADPHONES WITH VARIOUS OTHER AUDIO DEVICES; ALSO TESTED PLUGS AND ADAPTERS. WAS VERY THOROUGH.
SWITCHED EVERYTHING AROUND. BOTTOM LINE: EVERYTHING WORKED EXCEPT JACK IN STEREO. Which is why I reached out for advice.
One of the reasons it's hard to follow is your demented quoting style,
where you quote large amounts of text for no apparent reason,
inserting useless blank lines, which become triple blank lines when
you re-quote your own quotes. You also use vague and incorrect
terminology, and don't understand what you read very well.
Shouting doesn't add a thing.
"WAS VERY THOROUGH SWITCHED EVERYTHING AROUND" is vague and
inconclusive shouting. You never described switching "everything".
Many things could be switched that you haven't mentioned. It's a near
certainty that you haven't tried every combination, since you show no
evidence of even knowing what combinations exist.
"EVERYTHING WORKED EXCEPT JACK IN STEREO" What might that mean,
specifically, in plain English?
Good luck. In this conversation, some of the info you've been given is
excellent, and you've ignored plenty of it. Some of the info you've
been given is incorrect and useless. But the biggest stumbling block
is you, your incoherent posts, your misunderstanding of the
terminology, you misreading of many of the suggestions, and your
inability to step through the troubleshooting in a logical manner,
which you're now trying to blame on Usenet. Some people are trying to
help you, and now you're getting testy at them because you can't
understand what you read, or what you write. Give up and buy a TV that
isn't total crap.
It's been fun watching the village idiot's dog chasing its tail.
It sounds like you've established it's a bad stereo jack on the HK unit.
The question is what to do now? Repair is one option - and we're only
assuming that the jack is bad. Any part of the circuit in the HK that
delivers audio to that jack could be broken so, theoretically you can
replace the jack and still have no stereo output. Repairing a problem like
that could be fairly extensive/expensive, even to get an estimate.
If it were me, I'd bypass that jack and the HK. That leaves a wireless
headphone or separate amplifier box option. If you want to be able to
still hear TV through the speakers of the HK, you'll need two splitter
cables as well. Choice of gear dependent on how existing gear is routed.
Cost should be around $25. Basically a dedicated low-power amplifier for
headphones that is being "dropped into" the audio system where the HK and
its most likely bad jack now live. It's what I would do, or go wireless.
I solved the ubiquitous low volume problem of my existing 32" LCD TV by just
attaching some normal-sized bookshelf speakers. Fortunately this unit's
built-in speakers were wired with normal speaker wire spring clip
connections. The larger box recovers the bass that's always missing from
the slim built in speaker.
BTW, does the HK have a built-in tuner? Same results as TV with headphones?
I know we're being repetitive, but I've fixed things that weren't broken (at
least in the place I thought they were) before so it pays to be exhaustive.
FWIW, cleaning, reaming or sanding the jack's innards are not likely to help
if this is mechanical damage. Most contacts have an ultrathin chrome-like
plating that once mechanically degraded, will rapidly corrode. Remember,
though, if you opt to fix it, the repair may not simply involve a jack
No. I blamed the lack of an organized manner of proceeding on Usenet.
He does seem testy, when I tthought I made a good point. And even if I
didn't, I was trying to. If it indeed is the jack, there were several
posts about cleaning with a spray, about bending tangs -- these are good
ideas. (Except that I think it will be hard to bend the tangs right,
especially since there will be 6 (no common tang) and only one needs to
be bent. It's probably the farthest of 3 from the center and should be
bent closer to the center, but if too close to the center, the
headphones will stay on even when the speakers are on. However that can
be solved by unplugging the headphones so maybe being the tangs will
actually work. If you choose the wrong group of 3, that won't be so
bad either. You can then switch to the other set of 3, but like I said
you should push with a wooden stick while wearing the headphones, in
order to identify the right tang) When the missing sound appears,
that's the right tang.
And there is always the last resort: Replacing the jack, but it's
likely stuffed in a small corner of the device, and since the sound goes
off when the plug is inserted, that means there are 7 wires going to the
jack, each of which has to be put back on the right solder tab of the
new jack. And even though all 1/4" stereo ** jacks work the same, they
aren't all built the same and the solder connections can be in different
places from other jacks. Right??
**(What is the nomenclature that means double throw? Insert that between
stereo and jacks above, or just make sure to buy a 7 solder-connection
jack. I've never seen "double throw" in the description or name of a
jack, and yet they come in what's reasonably called both single and
double throw. Double if they turn some output off when they turn the
headphones on. )
So it would take 5 sets of notes. See below^^^^
One A, a table that just says which wire (described by color, and by
destination if two wires are the same color) goes to which solder
connection (described by a drawing or more than one drawing if they're
not all on the same side.) .
Then B, also a table, by examining the old jack, what each solder
connection, described by where it is, (first row, 2nd from left, for
example: Actually, it's better to make a drawing or more than one
drawing if connections aren't all on the same side) and what it is for.
Left in, L normally on, L normally off, same 3 for Right, and common.
That's 7. (Normally on goes eventually to the RCA jacks. Normally off
goes to the headphones)
Then C, by examinging the new jack, the same as in the previous
paragraph for B.
Then a table that matches every solder connector in B to the one in C
that is for the same purpose.
Then a table that matches every wire as described in A to a solder
connector in C. (by using the table just above and the information in
A, (and if necessary, B?) )
(Somehow I thought there would be another step or two, and a D, but I
think I got everything.
All of this has to be written down or assuredly, one will get confused.
One will get confused anyhow and have to look at what has been written
down. If you don't write every step down, A, B, C and the two last
tables, you will not finish, or you will finish by guessing.
I'm sure I've confused the OP by now, so unless he can find the exact
same jack,,, well even then he needs to do steps A and B, And there's
a good chance the jacks will look the same until one is done with step A
or step B, and then one notices that they're not the same. Step C
should be done, even if one thinks the two jacks are the same.
Remember, if one doesn't finish connecting all the wires, the device
won't work anymore, not even the RCA output jacks.
I don't know how much someone would charge to do this, and I'm afraid
the faceplate might not look like new when he's done. Because there is
probably a nut that holds the jack in place is outside the chassis but
under the faceplate.
^^^^Hmmm On the other hand, maybe it's held in place by solder
connection pins that go into the printed circuit board. Would they do
that with something subject to such lateral forces as a 1/4" jack?????
Then one has to get a jack with the the pins in the right place. None
of that A, B, C, D stuff will help. Are they any more standardized
when one buys a jack like this with circuit board pins? Then one also
has to consider how long the pins are and whether the jack will line up
with the hole in the faceplate. Are they always as long as one needs?
If they don't know here, ask in sci.electronics.repair.
Altoghether, the above is several more reasons that, as cheap as I am, I
like the idea of the wireless headphones whose transmitter plugs into
the RCA jacks.
On Friday, June 13, 2014 6:54:46 PM UTC-7, micky wrote:
You're right, and I apoolgize to the Universe. People ARE trying to help m
What I see happening is that someone just joins the thread, not having read
all the back posts, and I have to repeat the basic info I posted in the fi
Now that is unfair. Maybe it's the term "switching" that bothers you?
What I did was methodically try ALL my headphones, ALL my plugs, and ALL my
adapters in the jack. "Switching around" = Headphone A with plug B, ada
Then rotate all such that each component has had a chance to work with each
other. There's a mathematical term for this procedure but I can't think of
it. Basically, eliminating all the variables.
Sigh. After "switching around" all 3 sets of all 3 headphones, plugs and a
dapters, it became clear that THEY are not at fault, since they did work in
other audio items. What is left? The stereo jack. I really didn't think
that was so hard to understand, so I hope it's clear now.
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