A thermocouple makes electricity when the two ends are at different
temperatures. The electronic cooler device does the opposite. It makes a
difference in temperature (hot on one side, cold on the other) when DC
electricity passes through it.
I have seen ads for coolers that use ice.
That 'swamp cooler' may have some effect in dry areas of the country, but in
humid areas all it will do is make things worse.
The device that may plug into a car lighter socket is based on the Peltier
effect. Sort of a solid state heat pump. A special diode like device that
one side gets cool and the other side gets hot. I have seen coolers made
from them and where I worked we had a piece of test equipment that used one
so we could calibrate some instrumentation.
I don't know how practical it would be to make one room size, but doubt it
could be done without large ammounts of money spent. Not sure how efficent
it may be either.
Yeah, but I wouldn't call those miracle coolers.
I've been looking for a portable air conditioner that used a Peltier
junction, but haven't found one yet. The biggest thing I've found is
one of those cube-shaped motel or office fridge.
On Tue, 24 Jun 2014 05:49:38 -0700 (PDT), BenDarrenBach
Thanks. One that says it's 12btu also says it runs on 12 or 13 amps.
You've warned me and I'll make sure she doesn't buy one that uses 15 or
more. (I'm going to pick it up and bring it home too, unless she gets
one by mail.) I don't know what else she has on the circuit she would
Did you or Tegger notice the rest of your home getting hotter when you
That may very well be correct, but don't forget about humidity. In
hot humid climates, the temperature often approaches the dewpoint at
night. When the outside air is very humid and you bring it into the
basement, it could easily cool down to the dewpoint temerature and
condense on walls, pipes, and anything else down there. You can
damage things stored in the basement and encourage mold and mildew
Nope. At least not that we noticed; we were only concerned with cooling
that one room, which was a bedroom. We didn't mind sweltering during the
day, but trying to sleep in 90+ temperatures was impossible.
And both of our units ran off a standard 120V/15A wall outlet.
You do get used to the noise, which is about the same as a window unit.
We never bothered with any of that. It's more important to keep the newly-
cooled air inside the room than it is to give the room a particular
temperature of feed-air.
Just keep the room-door closed to allow the cool air to stay inside and the
room will cool to the point where you will eventually want to pull the
blankets over you. Those portables are pretty effective for one room;
you'll have noticeable cooling in about ten minutes, with the door kept
The portables also operate as dehumidifiers, which makes them really handy
in the basement once you have your normal A/C back.
Two isses I've found with the portables:
1) They're very heavy and bulky. It takes a man to lug them up and down
stairs, and even he's going to need to work at it..
2) Moving them too abruptly can cause their water reservoirs to slosh and
spill on the carpet, which is a bit of a nuisance..
That doesn't happen. The room being cooled ends up dryer than the rest of
the house, which remains only as moist as it would be anyway in the absence
of the portable.
The units act as dehumidifiers even in A/C mode, which is why the reservoir
fills up and needs to be emptied once in a while. Remember, portables can't
simply let their water drip outside, but must drip their water into an
internal pan instead.
On Tuesday, June 24, 2014 9:32:25 AM UTC-5, Tegger wrote:
Just to add...I haven't yet (3rd season) had to drain either unit of water! They will indicate if they fill and shut-off (hasn't happened). The units are said to have ultra-sonic water dispersion thru the exhaust hose...
I wasn't talking about the room being cooled. It should be pleasant
(both lower temp and lower humidity). I was responding to the comment
that air would be drawn in through the basement windows to replace the
hot air exhausted from the A/C in the bedroom.
Am I correct in assuming a "one hose" A/C exhausts hot air from the
condenser coil through that one hose, but uses inside air to feed
On Tue, 24 Jun 2014 08:51:36 -0700 (PDT), BenDarrenBach
One that I looked at on line had "self-evaporation" but I think it, or
another one?, also had a place for a tube at the bottom and a garden
hose about a foot up.
Another one I looked at came with RCA, Magnavox, Sylvania, and Keystone
brand names on it.
As to the basement rust, Pat, we've both had floods of various sorts
inthe basement and it didn't lead to rust, but if worst comes to worst,
she can close her basement window.
I think he meant condensation will form in the basement area , not the
area being cooled . I can see that happening , just as when I open my shop
that's cooled all night and it's 90%/90? outside I get condensation on my
machine tools . I keep the door closed until it's as warm inside as out <not
really well insulated converted freestanding metal carport> . Or turn on the
window unit and keep the door closed .
That sounds very good. What brand, model do you have?
It is the same model, not another one, but they might have changed the
design. A new one is advertised as having "The no-bucket design" but
otoh that might just mean there's no bucket but a hose. Clever these
If you're talking about the kind that sits on the floor and has a 4-6
inch hose that you run out the window.... I've got one and would never
get another like it.
It cools just fine, but the condensate drain is 3-inches from the floor
and has to drain into a pan or through a tube you have to run along the
floor to outside. It's a royal pain to use. Don't even get started
with one of those.
Some of these type models claim to 're-evaporate' the condensate, but I
don't believe them.
You'll be mopping up water I guaranteed it with either one of these.
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