Can I use an air-actuated framing nailer gun to nail parallel 2x4s
I have a home business, and one of the tasks is to screw 2x4s together
to make one thick post. I spread glue on the 3.5" wide faces, then
clamp them together before fastening.
Instead of driving deck screws for fastening, I am curious if I can
use a pneumatic framing nailer.
Would I split the wood?
You do it all the time for King/Cripple studs for framing in a doorway.. Or
at least I've always nailed them together.
The 3" nail is usually a Tad long though so I usually add a slight angle to
Set the framing nailer depth to flush nailing rather than toenailing.
The nailhead should sit flat with the wood surface rather than
countersunk. It it's countersunk, the nail point will protrude on the
other side. If the boards are clamped together, it should not be a
On Sat, 15 Mar 2008 16:16:44 -0700 (PDT), bryan
Why bother with nails or screws if you are gluing the two bys
together? Simply use enough clamps to hold them overnight and you're
good to go in the morning. If it makes you feel better, use a couple
ring shank nails at each clamping site or someplace where it might
impress a customer. Framing nails are available in thicknesses
unlikely to split the wood. Check out the Senco line for some of the
best tools and fasteners in the business. HTH
Others have answered the nail question.
I will add a bit.
The trick to nailing two (or more) 2X members together so you have a
straight member is to eyeball them and then lay them so the curve is
opposite. Start nailing at one end and keep pulling the opposite ends
to make the area being nailed match each other as you proceed. A
helper is nice but not really needed.
It will be easy at the start but grows harder the nearer you approach
the opposite end. The last nail or two may require a clamp to make
the members match.
If you start with two members of approximately equal curviture, the
finshed product will be straight.
Interesting, when I've been in this situation I've always aligned the
ends and nailed those off, then aligned the midpoints and nailed that,
and then the quarter points, etc. At a certain point it becomes very
difficult to eliminate the slight difference remaining, so I give up
on the straightening. This gives me something that is on average
straight, but with perhaps small amounts of curvature between each
So that raises the question of whether one of these ways is better
than the other. I don't know, any thoughts?
You need to be a lot more picky about your lumber. It shouldn't be
necessary to go through all that fuss to get a good result. When you
sort through the junque lumber at the box store, look at the endgrains
and then check for excessive knots, warping, cupping, twist and
whatever. There is a relationship between the endgrain pattern and
quality of the wood straightness. Doesn't take too much inspection to
see the differences and pick out the better pieces. If that stack is
hopeless, go to the other box store or maybe a real lumberyard. Some
species are better than others, too, so it pays to know if is aspen,
pondersosa pine, spruce (not likely), larch, or hemlock (ugh). Yellow
pine is neat stuff but a bear to work with unless you must have its
special properties. HTH
Hmmm...never heard of doing ti that way. Looks more difficult than
what I described. The method I use is what I learned in a carpentry
course back in the 70s. Biggest member and length I helped with was a
triple member 2x10x30ft for a basement support. Even 2x10 can be
forced straight that way although the last foot or so definitely needs
Well, I skip the clamps, and I give up when I can't readily do it by
hand. So I have a bunch of little deviations along the length of the
two members. With the linear method, you accumulate all the
deviations at the free end, so you have to keep going till the end,
using more and more force as necessary.
It's a lot easier to align each end and then pull the center into
You can straighten bowed lumber by opposing two warped boards boards
and nailing them together. You can't straighten cupped lumber. You
can straighten crooked lumber by driving nails in a corner of the
bowed board at a 45 degree angle into the other board - that will beat
up an edge, but it will straighten most crooks. Wish it was that easy
in politics. ;)
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