Can anyone tell me why the footing has to be poured across the garage door?
This mean I need to pump the concrete instead of driving the truck inside.
I am thinking of failing my inspection so I can drive the truck inside and
save the $500 pumping cost.
I am the home owner and builder. I won't correct. I will just build the
building the way I want and ignore the inspector. I don't need a
certificate of occupancy. I have my permit. The building meets all zoning
and setback requirements. It is not going to collapse. I will just build
it and not call for any inspections.
I sold my last house. The buyer wanted to know about permits for a
floor. We had built a floor that divided the cathedral ceiling at the
second level floor 20 X 12 floor. Gave us another room upstairs.
Luckily, I had papers from the "friend" and a statement of work and a
materials list. Not pulling and complying with a permit, can be
difficult when selling a house.
Just how long and wide is your garage? Are you talking just the footers,
or the stem walls as well? Unless your lot has some real weirdness to
it, I've never seen a location where they couldn't get 'close enough'
with the chutes, to hit all the forms to where 2 strong guys with
shovels couldn't coax the concrete along. Or have they ditched the
extended chutes in favor of the fancy pumper truck, the better to make
Yes, you need the footing across the garage door. It catches the weight
and the impact load from the cars driving up onto the slab, and it helps
prevent frost heave from when water gets under the slab (at the crack
where it meets the apron or driveway) and freezes. You can tell cheap
tract houses where they didn't have footings under the door, by the big
gaps at the bottom of the garage doors. If your town requires a
continuous footing, good on them.
As to how to solve your problem- how much more would the redi-mix
company charge to do the pour in 2 deliveries a day apart? One pour is
best, but you can lace them together with rebar stuck in the first pour,
unless the inspector freaks out.
Or there is always the old standby of ten strong guys and a wheelbarrow
conga line, if the truck will hang around that long.
I got one old guy and a woman. If it is needed I'll put it in. If I take
out two trees and a grape arbor I can get down one side. The other side I
may have to move a 8X25 building to the side 10 feet or so to get access.
The garage is 28X32. A contractor looked at it today and told me it would
have to be pumped. I told him I didn't want to pay.
You're saving 55c per square foot by nixng the pump?
Who did the design? Could a you substitute a "thickened edge" on the
slab for the footer?
Could the footer at the opening be poured along with the garage
Is the footer as you call it really a grade beam and part of the
How big is your pour? $500 for a pump seems a bit high....
Does the garage have a second story?
If he can't get the concrete truck to the back third of the foundation
trench, how is he going to get the slab poured? Same access problems.
Worse, actually, since you usually pour the slab last, in case anything
moves during the framing and roofing phase.
But yeah, if he puts rebar hooks on either end of the gap, he could do a
monolithic pour of the front slab footer.
It is a part of the integrity of the structure.
I read your other post and you may find it to be much cheaper in the long
run to pay the $500 up front and do the job right. Town inspectors have ways
of making your life miserable and the legal fees can be many times the 500
bucks. Do the job right.
You may appreciate that footing when the lack of it causes heaving or
settling in the years ahead. Much depends on the soil and climate
conditions, but codes are generally brought about for good reason.
I did mine opposite. I threw a bunch of firewood logs in the ditch for
the truck to drive over then pulled them out and quick finished the
rebar after the truck was out and ready to pour the footer at the doors.
Although I didn't see the OP so I don't know how deep your footer is.
I think the OP is from Oregon... So I'm assuming frost depth isnt that
I'd be surprised if the footer is any deeper than 18 or 24".
wrt to another post... "how's he going to pour the slab if he cannot
A couple extra chute segments will get him more than close enough to
place the slab mud, but not close enough to get it into the back
Pat, my suggestion is squeeze the pump price & then bit the
bullet......I think you'll be much happier with the process & the
Doh! Excellent point!
I totally forgot a very tiring experience I had nearly 40 years
A buddy & I were hired to unload a concrete truck......the whole 9
yards (I think) , two guys, two wheelbarrows
We wheeled the mud ~100ft for a garage .....only about 45 trips each,
done in just over an hour
We ran our asses off ....
As Tony suggested, wheelbarrows are doable & probably cheaper way
cheaper than the put.
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