I'm ready to use a few bags of ready mix to top a small section of sidewalk 2 inches thick. I've heard that a little white glue will help it stick. I have some TiteBond II reaching the end of it's shelf life can I use this? Or is it a waste of time. Being Sunday I have no access to any hardware stores in my area so I have to do this with materials on hand.
Thanks for any quick responses. I'm going to build the form right now.
Thanks.
First go to the store and return the ready mix and get a cement made to bond for repairs and coating, Read the instructions,, then get muriatic acid and wash it full strength before you build the forms but after digging. Or just pour what you have you havnt followed any rules anyway, so why ask here.
I'm not coating. I'm actually laying across the top of a 3ft wide sidewalk with a 6 ft x 5 ft rectangle. It will be roughly 2+ inches higher than the sidewalk. It's rebared so it doesn't have to adhere to the old sidewalk but I though a little bonding wouldn't hurt.
Are all WebTV posters ignorant pricks like you?
Are all concrete wannabees as stupid as you, 2 inch no acid wash, water infiltration, freeze thaw and you lost your bond. Rebar in 2 " do it your way but you are not suporting a load and its to thin.
There is a latex adhesive to help with the bond, HD has it. I would not try to save a few dollars to avoid using the proper adhesive. Also, make certain that the old surface is CLEAN of debris and WET THE OLD SURFACE DOWN with water so that it does not prematurely wick the water out of new uncured cement.
The sidewalk is already 8 inches thick and hasn't moved in 25 years.
2 inches is as high as I can go above that you putz.if you dont have time to go down to the hardware store to get the proper stuff, or wait until you can, when are you gonna find time to tear up this hack job and fix it?
if the auto store is closed do you tape a pie pan on the axle to fix a flat too?
randy
Considering a 6x5 garbage can storage unit is going on top of this I doubt I'll be tearing it up. I simple asked if glue would help the new crete stick. It's not essential. Thanks for the useless advice.
If it isn't a troll, I see many people who want to take the easy way out, or a shortcut method. They ask the newsgroup readers to get their approval for the shortcut method of doing a job. This way when it fails, they can blame the newsgroup and say ".....they said it would work" or "....this is the way they said to do it", "its their fault not mine".
Sometimes it works out that the newsgroup readers tell a person the correct way to do it and warn him that his way will fail, as happened here.
Sure it will not hurt to put the stuff down. Shelf life is usually under listed anyway.
Rough up the concrete before you put the steel. I think rebar is a bit over kill for a 2 inch slab, steel mesh or wire screen would have been my choice.
Have fun
Hey Bozo call me a putz , You the Putz .
The right way that will last isnt even near to what i said here say . It would require a daimond drum scorer. Min 800$ machine. You dont want to even clean it with acid first !=A0 Or use a concrete designed for this ! Well its hacks like you that make buying homes a nightmare Concrete looks good but fails 1 yr later. Why ask if you are going to bitch and are to lazy to Google and learn right. Rebar in 2" concrete ! with the right weather your way will be a 4 yr job. Yea have fun Hacko
The rebar is to support the 'wings'. It will just lie on top of the sidewalk. This is actually a 6x5 slab across the sidewalk. So there are 4-5 inch thick sections 5' x1.5' on each side of the sidewalk. The 2in topcoat is because that's the maximum height I can go above the sidewalk.
So it's a 6x5 slab with an existing 3'x5' 8 inch thick section of sidewalk under the middle. A water tight garbage can storge unit will go over this.
give incomplete information, get a useless answer.
at least the garbage is right next to the place youll be ripping out this hack job so you wont have to carry it far...
randy
Actually you don't have a clue. All hat no cattle.
I just talked to the guy who poured my 24x36 shop pad last year, he owns 3 redimix plants and has been in the business since he was 12 and he would do exactly what I'm doing. Wire mesh is useless, top coat is useless for my application. Considering the sidewalk surface is completely worn away acid is a waste of money. He would lay rebar and pour the pad on a damp sidewalk. Glue is optional. Consdering I'm 60 miles from the closest hardware store or even a source of washed gravel bagged redimix is perfect.
So f*ck you shit for brains!
Yea and I guess He wouldnt Acid clean either, I ve known a few " pros " in my time that never learned the basics. They are to smart for that. You 2 are one more example.
On Sun, 11 Jul 2004 11:38:26 -0700, "SQLit" vaguely proposed a theory ......and in reply I say!:
remove ns from my header address to reply via email
Serious question. Where was rebar mentioned? I must have missed a message somehow.
enjoy your new sandbox.
randy
On Sun, 11 Jul 2004 10:01:12 -0600, snipped-for-privacy@address.invalid wrote (in article ):
I don't know about the glue, but a common "trick" is to dust the slab with some latex modified thinset (HD versabond).
-Bruce
I would not use a wood glue like Titebond. At best it would do nothing. At worst, it would prevent the concrete from sticking.
When I repaired my concrete patio, I used a special adhesive intended for concrete. It was inexpensive and was sold at the local home center near where they keep concrete patch.
I am a firm believer in using the right tool (or in this case, adhesive) for the job.
You had to wonder?
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