I'm moving to a new place, and in the breaker box there's a "push-to-test
10" button on one 20 Amp breaker, and only on that one, that I don't understand. The panel label has this as "Bath Rec" and "Outside Rec". Perhaps it's a GFI thing. Anyway, if someone could explain what this is likely to be, I would appreciate it.
I could easily imagine that it is a GFCI breaker that supplies the bathroom receptacles and outdoor receptacles. You might consider testing it - if it's something that will keep you awake at night. John T.
GFCI. Required to have it for outdoor or bathrooms, though you can use receptacles. This simplifies.
Standard advice is to test it using a plug in radio or similar noise maker turned to full volume. It makes things just a bit easier.
Others have explained that it's a GFCI breaker. 2 reasons to use a GFCI receptacle or a GFCI breaker:
1 - Required for wet/damp locations, like bathrooms, kitchen counters, garages, exterior (decks, etc.) 2 - To allow for the use of grounded (3 prong) receptacles when there is no ground wire present. When used in this situation, the receptacle should labeled as "No equipment ground".Since your panel is labeled with "Bath Rec" and "Outside Rec", it's probably Situation 1, although I've seen many mislabeled/outdated labeled panels. I'd spend some verifying the panel labeling after you move in to save time in the future.
All that said, I do not know what the "10" on that button means. Never saw that before. A Goggle image search shows that there's also a GE breaker that has an "8". I called 2 local electrical supply houses and neither of them carried GE breakers, so they couldn't explain what the numbers meant.
Anybody know?
Maybe it's actually 1ø as in single phase.
Looks like it is the interruption rating
Makes sense. The proof would be finding this breaker and have the specs show
8 kiloampere. I'll leave that in your very capable hands. ;-)
No need for that , when he pushes the button the brkr will trip just like it will with an overload . Push all the way to off then turn on and Robert's your mother's brother .
I believe that the point was to make it easier to determine exactly which receptacle(s) are protected by the GFCI breaker. Plug a radio into a receptacle, turn it up so that you can hear it at the panel and press the button.
This assumes that you are either:
1 - Working alone 2 - Are aware how badly things can go when trying to map a breaker panel with someone you are romantically involved with."Is the light on?" "What?" (louder) "Is the light on?" "Yes" "Is it on now?" "What?" (louder) "Is it on now?" "Why are you yelling at me? Yes, it's on" "How can it be on? All the breakers are off." "I don't know. The switch is still on." "Arrrggghhhh!"
Both GFCI and AFCI breakers have "pust to test" but I'll agree withHubcaps - 99% chance it's aGFCI breaker
I just having trouble understanding why only this one has the GFI in the box instead of in the receptacle as all the others are. So last night I finished mapping out exactly what each breaker controls, and found that this one powers the sink-side receptacles of all three bathrooms, and nothing else. So your explanation is correct.
The inspector reported that GFI wasn't working on one exterior receptacle, and said that could be because the receptacle was defective, or because it isn't wired correctly (I assume this means ground is not connected). So at some point I'll have to fix that, or get it fixed.
The other thing he reported was that there are several sets of breakers that operate in pairs (the ovens, the two AC compressors, and the dryer) but which do not have handle ties installed. These think these are GE breakers, and it looks like official ties are like $10 or more each. I just wonder if a little epoxy putty wouldn't do just as well.
I will ask separately about plumbing issues.
Thanks very much for all the comments.
A worst case scenario would be if your epoxy doesn't hold when a power needs to be off to an oven, for example. One breaker stays on leaving 110 vac to the oven. Someone doesn't realize it and gets shocked. 110 vac can kill. A repairman's widow hires an expensive lawyer. You get to pay.
GFCI's do not need grounds to operate. In fact, I specifically mentioned that in my earlier response.
2 - To allow for the use of grounded (3 prong) receptacles when there is no ground wire present. When used in this situation, the receptacle should labeled as "No equipment ground".Not if you want it to meet code.
Even the old "nail though the handles" method doesn't meet code.
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