More on furniture refinishing? ? ?

[Ray]

Thanks to all who gave me advice on oil vs. water finishing coat. I've decided on oil.

But there's another problem. When I sanded the table top, the wood turned out to be not mahogany but something that was very blonde, almost white.

I used the Minwax color chart to choose a shade that seemed closest to the original.

But even when I put on two coats, the top is a lighter shade than the original. Using two coats didn't help much.

I haven't put on the finishing coat yet.

Question: Can I now use a darker chade of Minwax over the one I just put on?

[ransley]

What kind of wood is it, how much darker, are you matching the bottom, how about a photo or we should just guess. Different woods use different stains, I dont really like minwax, it doesnt have deep color on some woods it to thin. Ive been using gel stain, but I forgot the name. Are you still doing the HD thing, go to a real paint store you would have avoided this by bringing in a photo.

[ransley]

Now that you stained it it must fully cure or restaining it will smear the old stain, maybe1 -3 weeks depending on humidity and temp. Maybe take out the paint stripper and start over. You just made a problem for yourself.

[RicodJour]

This is all the same question so you should keep it all in the same thread - don't start new ones.

Staining bare wood, when you don't know what the wood is, and you don't have a lot of experience, is a recipe for heartbreak.

R

[Ed Pawlowski]

"Ray" wrote

Yes, but the results may still be on the light side. The first coats soaked into the wood and will act a bit as a sealer. I'd wait a week or so and they consider using a gel stain. They take a bit more time to apply, but they tend to stay darker once applied.

[Don Phillipson]

The Minwax range can be deceptive so far as these products claim to be both a stain and a finish. Classic woodworking proceeded differentlly, first filling and sanding for the right texture, secondly staining to produce the colour you want, thirdly and lastly applying the finish (anything from an exterior shell, e.g. urethane or French polish, to teak oil which requires reapplication every X months.) Minwax products offer two at once to speed this process.

[Jim Elbrecht]

Minwax is a brand name. They make an assortment of products from a variety of different types of stains to some 'one step' products designed, IMO, for quick and dirty jobs where appearance is of little concern.

You were asking about polyurethanes before, so I'm concerned that what you've started is not just staining. but staining/finishing.

*If* what you used was just a stain, with *no* finishers in it, then probably. If you used a one step product, then see what it says on the label about re-coating. [I think the answer is yes- but it has been a long time since I used that stuff]

If you used a one step product, and then try to use a stain, the answer is no.

Jim

[ransley]

If its a sealer then it may not darken, Ive never liked minwax stains on some projects I did, I would get something with more effect.

[Joe]

Try some Cabot stains. Their product line is different, considered by many to be top notch, available IIRC at Lowes. Use Minwax and specialty finishes, myself, and Cabots are on the list to try.

Joe

[Ray]

Thanks again to all who responded.

I think the problem is solved. I put on five coats of the same stain, waiting six hours between recoating, and I've pretty much reached the desired shade.

-- Ray