Typical closet rod is at least 1" thick going up to 1 1/2" which is
about the maximum interior diameter of your average hanger. The
thinner the rod, the less stiff it will be. 3/4" daimeter anything,
even solid rod, would bend a lot if it was 10' long and fully loaded
(what closet isn't?).
Most households don't need more than 4 feet of rod mounted 5.5 feet from the
floor. Many times I install only 2 feet. Mostly for dresses, rain coats,
robes and coveralls. Most items (shirts, skirts, pants) can hang in 40
inches of space. Which means that you can mount a rod near the ceiling and
another half way to the floor. So I install 4 feet or less of rod 5.5 feet
from the floor and the rest near the ceiling and in the middle. I use
cupboards to break up a long wall into sections. Cupboard space is just as
important in a closet as hanging space. To divide your 10 foot wall into
two sections install a 1 foot wide cupboard on the floor in the center. Put
a shelf every foot. Great for shoes. hats, folded clothes. Make it extra
nice by adding a face frame and cupboard doors. Divide your wall into three
sections by using two cupboards. I like to use 1 1/4" electrical conduit
for rod. Super strong. I drive 1 1/4 pipe floor flanges on the ends and
screw them to the wall. 6 feet is the longest I would make them. I have
never felt a need to slide hangers on a long rod. Using this system future
adjustments are easy. You can always remove a rod or shift them to a new
height. If I build the house I put blocking behind the sheetrock for
support. Otherwise I mount a piece if 3/4 inch plywood on the face of the
Schedule 80 or better steel pipe or better a solid 1.5 inch bar.
The schedule 80 pipe will be about 100 pounds and the bar over 200 lbs.
Then comes the problem of attachment to the walls for the bar/pipe. You
definately would need backing attached to the structure to support such a
Look at some floor joists span details. 10' clear with no other support at
least a 2x10.
Make a bracket that comes out from the wall, then goes up to the bottom
of the pole. Since clothes-hangers only contact the top and sides of
the pole, the bracket won't interfere with sliding the hangers. Just
make sure it fits in the space above the top of the hanger arm.
As others have said, better to use a bracket that supports the pole in a
way that allows the hangers to slide past the bracket. But that does
depend on your hangers -- a bracket that lets one hanger pass may block
another, depending on the shape of the hanger.
As for materials, my longer closet rods are 4130 steel aircraft tubing.
It's overkill as a material, but has a better finish than steel pipe or
conduit. Plus I have it around in appropriate sizes since it's also
good for building bicycle frames.
If it's somewhere very visible and appearance is really important, you
might want to use stainless tubing instead, though it's a bit harder to
work with and more expensive.
email@example.com is Joshua Putnam
Easy enough, I reinforced my closet rod with a piece of channel aluminum.
Neighbor had trashed a pile of shelf standards. Used this to stiffen the
closet shelves too. This stuff wasnt your typical channel stock though. Put
two lengths of it together back to back and it would form a hexagon. Also
used to work in te garment industry many years ago. They make special wall
mount brackets that will support a rod in the middle and allow a hangar to
slide over it. Maybe not all hangars though
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