10 year old Moffat Washing Machine- has been no problem until it started leaving
a 'dirty' ring around the top of the tub. Have also noticed a few small spots on
clothes. It's definitely oil. Is this the transmission ( as I have read it could
be)? Is it worth a repairman's visit or should I go straight to purchasing new?
It could certainly be a costly repair and probably not worth it for a
ten year old appliance. I'd go for a new "no frills" washer which should
be about $400
Those expensive machines with a lot of electronic controls ...in my
opinion ...are a big waste of money
In alt.home.repair, on Sun, 4 Oct 2015 13:09:11 -0500, philo
My Kenmore, made by Whilrpool, has gone 36 years, but it did need a
belt-tightening some time in the last 5 years.
That was not exactly hard but it wasn't as easy as I thought it would
be. Had to get a pry-bar to push on the motor while I tightened the
bolt that held it in place. Might have used the 14" jack handle iron
from most GM cars in the 60's and 70's. But it didn't stick the first
time or two. I'd have to start the basket spinning in the spin cycle.
Partly because it too crowded behind the machine to be on my knees, so I
had to sit with my legs folded. And partly I think because I'd really
be better off with a new belt. Don't they stretch or glaze or
My dryer is also 36 years old and it stopped working for the first time
2 weeks ago. It's either the belt or the wheels the basket rests on.
Makes a shrieking or grinding noise, iirc. Also I use the How Much
Wetness cycle and it depnds on where the knob is whether it does
anything or not. I don't remember that before. Even harder to work on
because the basement is crowded and first I have to move the washer.
Had to dry my laundry all over the place last time, and it worked pretty
well until I used three pairs of underpants and couldn't find anymore.
I had to open my reserve package of brand new. Later found five pair on
the shower rod.
In alt.home.repair, on Sun, 4 Oct 2015 18:08:27 -0500, philo
I don't know if they made that kind 36 years ago, but I didn't buy the
washer anyhow. The guy I bought my house from picked it out. He
didn't buy the most expensive, I think, but he didn't buy the cheapest
either. I think he bought what I would have bought.
You can either buy a new machine or pay a serviceman $80 to tell you it
will cost a bunch of money to fix it.
I'd go for a new one. I can see that being a repair costing 75% of a
new machine and you still have a 10 year old machine that can break down
for another reason.
In alt.home.repair, on Sun, 04 Oct 2015 16:44:01 +0000, Kathy
If you do get another one, offer this one free until you find someone
who has the time to fix it. Freecycle or Craig's LIst if you say
everything that is wrong with it, etc. or maybe an inner city appliance
repairman, who will go to the trouble of combining two scrap machines
and make one that works Who'll save this one until he gets the machine
with matching parts. If someone like that doesn't want it, and he may
not, you'll be positive if wasn't worth fixing.
Although when you buy a new one most times the delivery guy will take
away the old one. What he does, I don't know.
OT, I took my stove, ruined by fire, to the city dump, and a guy at the
entrance wanted it. He was waiting there for people like me. I guess
either of them were going to make scrap metal out of it, but he actually
wanted it and the dump just took it because they had to I had it on
one of those trays that plug into a trailer hitch receiver, and he had a
Depends on how old yer last machine is. I usta fix my own. Buy a
manual and have at it.
OTOH, if you have a newer machine, maybe not. I notice many generic
major appliance parts stores have gone by the wayside. I recall our's
closed and when I went to the appliance store to inquire why, they
told me the older parts were becoming unavailable and new appliances
harder to repair. Whan I asked about my particular problem --bad
thermostat/controller in newer model GE fridge-- they told me the tool
to change the part cost more than the original refrigerator. These
were the same guys that usta run the parts store. 8|
Are they lying? Doubt it. But they say "highly improbable."
"6. I am getting oil on my clothes/floor.
To minimize the possibility of electric shock, unplug this appliance
from the power supply before attempting any maintenance or cleaning.
Greasy or oily stains on clothes:
• The 1995 and newer washer transmission design makes it highly
improbable for oil from the transmission to get into washer and
splatter on clothing. Most of the time it is caused by splatters from
cooking oil. Stains from foods or cooking oils, sometimes called
"invisible stains", may not be noticed as you put clothes in the
washer. If not completely removed in the wash cycle, the oily spots
may pick up dirt from wash water making the spots visible. The washer
does not cause these spots.
Wash garments as soon as practical after wearing, using more
detergent than normal and the hottest wash water fabric can stand.
Rub in undiluted detergent, let stand 30 minutes and rewash, using
hottest water fabric can stand.
• If your water is extremely hot, 150 degrees or higher, the water
inlet hose(s) could start to break down, causing black greasy stains
on clothes. Refer to the Use and Care Guide for your water heater, set
the temperature accordingly, and replace the inlet hose(s). "
Easy way to find out.
Thoroughly clean the washer. Remove all signs of oily ring with a good
greese cutting detergent (dawn dishwashing soap is a good example).
Then get some clean old towels or other ultimately expendable fabric
and run a cycle with a small amount of the greese-cutting detergent -
then run the load again with clear water - look for any signs of oil
on the drum. If none, run the load again with your normal detergent
and check again.. If there is no oily deposit you are pretty safe to
assume there is no oil leak in the washer.
If you are using a fabric softener, double check your "dosage" as too
much WILL leave deposits.
Also check your laundry detergent and if your water is very hard, use
washing soda or water conditioner like "calgon" to reduce or eliminate
hard water scum.
Another possibility to look at.
Fabric softener - this repairman says it's made of oil and has to be
used correctly. It's not your machine, but might be relevant.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.